Sunday, 11 December 2022

Our 2022 Vintage, such as it was

 

June 26th. The last rain before picking in September.
 

Vineyard owners must be used to people assuming global warming must be good for them but this year we discovered that heat and lack of rain can be no good at all. 

We were adopted by wallabies. We're not sure the dry grass suited them any better than the grapes.
 

Before the hosepipe ban in our area (Thames Valley) we were having to water our youngest vines more than once a week. 

Looks dead doesn't it?

 

The ban came just as we were giving up anyway due to the demise of so many baby plants.

Tiny sign of life. at bottom.

When the drought broke we were pleasantly surprised at how many vines came back to life. Unfortunately we had pulled up quite a few in the belief they were dead. 

Before

After

 

Of the established vines the Solaris still managed profuse leaf growth. We had decided to leave the canopy as it was to protect the grapes from the sun and heat. Later on we just had to remove the suckers and let the grapes get some sun.


The whites fared better than the reds

The drought was not good for the more established vines either. 

Many grapes, especially the red ones remained small and hard. 

Bunches stripped of grapes can be seen if you take a close look.
 

This didn't stop the birds getting them yet again. In the past, it was the pheasants who ate them. This year we saw with joy that there were no pheasants around at all so we didn't notice their place was taken by pigeons. 


 We bought some extremely cheap Chinese netting which was effective but took an inordinate amount of time to cover the vines. W didn't realise while we were doing this the pigeons were gorging themselves at the other end.

3 year old Cabaret Noir

Our Cabaret (originally Cabernet) noir is finally showing some growth.. There were even a couple of tiny bunches of grapes to be seen. We found out a reason why we have poor growth is because we are over 400 ft above sea level. This is not advised by Stephen Skelton MW in his authoratative 'Wine Growing in Great Britain.' Like 75% of British vineyards, ours is in the wrong place. Find the right place first and then plant a vineyard. Until relatively recently, people have planted where they already lived or farmed.

That's all folks.

Whites from Solaris (left) and 'Gli Altri' field blend (right).

Out of our entire vineyard we only made 25 litres of white wine and 15 litres of red. Why do we do it? It reminds us what a struggle it is for growers all over the world to produce a good harvest.

Oh well, 2023 is another year.



In fact we decided to act early in preparation for the replanting of vines we had lost this year. It needed a digger to prepare holes, so hard was the clay soil. Planting will be in March or April if we manage to get 75 Cabaret Noir and 100 Soreli or Fleurtai vines.

It was a good year for chestnuts though.



Thursday, 8 December 2022

Hungarians

 

There are many good wine shops in Budapest and Sopron too for that matter. No doubt all over Hungary as well. We have reported many times on this country - rare grape variety hotspot equal to Greece, Portugal, Switzerland, Italy and others. If you are looking for a winemerchant in Budapest for rare Hungarian varieties, Tasting Table Hungary is the place for you.


Not long ago we received an email from TTH with news of even more varieties to add to the ones we had imported in May 2021 (see this blog). They were among others

Piros Bakator, Somlo Kincse Winery

Rozalia, Turay Winery

Laska, Szentesi Winery

Tihanyi Kek, Szentesi Winery

Tarkali Kek, Szentesi Winery

Zengő "Ocsi", Szentesi Winery 

Obviously the Szentesi Winery is devoted to reviving obscure grapes. Here is a note on the remarkable Joszef Szentesi;


As a child, József Szentesi showed little interest in working in his father’s 1ha vineyard in Budaörs, 10km from Budapest. But, in 1998, he decided to make his own wine, training himself and gaining inspiration from winemakers in Burgundy. Currently, he manages 16ha on the slopes of Lake Velencei, 50km from Hungary’s capital, at an altitude of 175m. He grows 30 different grape varieties – including 20 that are extremely rare.

"I also have traditional varieties, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Kadarka from the reds; Riesling, Zengő, Sauvignon Blanc, some Furmint and Kéknyelű from the whites. In an old publication written in 1880, I read about the ancient first-, second-, and third-class grape varieties. I was surprised that I hadn't even heard about many of the first-class ones. I have chosen 10 red and 10 white varieties; I purchased the rooted grafts from the Winery Research Faculty of University of Pécs, and Dr Pál Kozma (grape breeder) helped with the grafting on. In 2001, I read an article about ‘Buda Red’ wine, which is a blend from Kadarka and Csókaszőlő grapes that was one of the most important export commodities of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. I decided that I wanted to make this wine. In 2003, we grafted 300 grapevines of Csókaszőlő (below), from which I made 40 litres of wine in 2004. In 2005, Hungarian winemakers visited me and were fascinated by the wine, because since 130 years no one made wine from this variety. Some of them also took grafts, for example, Vylyan winery from Villány. 

The reds are Tihanyi Kék, Tarcali Kék, Csókaszőlő, Kékbajor, Feketefájú Bajor, Hajnos Kék, Kékszilváni, Purcsin, Laska, Feketemuskotály. The whites are Szerémi Zöld, Balafánt, Kovácsi, Kolontár, Lisztes, Fehér Gohér, Hamvas, Sárfehér, Vörösdinka, Piros Bakator. I see a big potential in the reds, because only Kékfrankos (Blaufrankisch) and Kadarka have survived the phylloxera plague from the native red grape varieties. From eight of the reds I already made wine several times, and this year I’ll make from Purcsin and Kékszilváni. From the whites, I see potential in Szerémi Zöld. In addition, I make a blend of Lisztes Fehér and Zöldszilváni. 

How wonderful is that?

 

Koszonom szepen to Tamas Korner and his people at Tasting Hungary


 

 

Tuesday, 6 December 2022

Seeing Soreli

 

A bit of background: we chose Soreli as the main white grape for our small experimental vineyard in the Thames Valley when we grubbed up our old vine (early 1990s) Bacchus 3 or 4 years ago. No one tells you that Bacchus is very susceptible to mildew of one sort or another and requires more than a dozen 'treatments' in a season. That is spraying with chemicals. We weren't too keen on that hence the 'arrachage' and change of grape.

Francesco Visentin with his young Soreli vines

After a visit to the Vivai Cooperativo Rauscedo (VCR - the world's largest vine nursery) we chose 'Soreli' following a fascinating tasting of micro-vinifications from the various new resistant varieties obtained by the VCR. 

 

Soreli vine free from grass and growth on the trunk

Our Soreli is an offspring from (Tocai) Friulano and a resistance partner. There is another grape called Fleurtai with the exact same genetic make up which ripens slightly earlier. Soreli is Friulian for 'Sun' by the way.

Soreli and Fleurtai have been planted in Friuly by Azienda Agricola Obiz among others as well as in France (Languedoc) of which more later and even Sweden (Gotland).

Our friend Francesco Visentin of A.A. Obiz was kind enough to send us two sample bottles of Soreli a couple of years ago so we profited from a recent trip to Venice to pay him a visit at Obiz only an hour north of La Serenissima.

To be honest, our Soreli in England has been struggling. The hot dry conditions of the last two years have been disastrous for the baby vines. In 2021 we weren't able to water them because of the lockdown and this year it looked as if we had lost most of the replacement vines even with watering although many of them came back once the rain came.

Installing irrigation at A.A. Obiz

The soil at Obiz is heavy clay as is ours in the UK. During our visit we saw irrigation work being carried out. We felt a kinship there although we have no budget for such measures. The hosepipe is all we can use as long as there, bans permitting.

 

Baby Soreli grapes

 It is amazing how impervious heavy clay can be but Obiz is obviously on top of the problem. Francesco gave us invaluable advice on growing Soreli. It is especially important to ensure no grass ('the enemy of the vine' according to Francesco) is present at the foot of the vines and that the trunks are free of growth.


Obiz is an impressive operation and deserves to be well known more widely internationally.


Indeed things are moving in that direction. There was an Obiz stall at the London International Wine Fair 2022 for the first time.

Stainless steel tanks.
 

Obiz wines include Friulano, Malvasia, Pinot Grigio, Ribolla Gialla and Traminer Aromatico
(Gewurtztraminer) as well as Soreli for the whites and Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon, Merlot and Refosco for the reds. As well as still wines they make three sparklers.

Concrete or Epoxy Fermentation tanks
 

Soreli isn't listed in any of the blends on the website but may be included under Friulano.

Francesco pours samples from the Soreli tank.

At a tasting of 57 varieties made by only one or very few producers at the Athenaeum Club in London in 2021, the Obiz sample of Soreli was included and scored a respectable 16 on Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages site with the comment

Heady, furry-peachy aromas with the merest hint of Muscat. Clean and fresh but not the most complex wine. Though the persistence is quite impressive!

The sample Francesco sent us in 2019

Now to return to Soreli in the Languedoc, there have been some ructions thanks to an edict rather late in the day banning Soreli (even after plantings had been made) but allowing Fleurtai. When pressed the authorities claimed that Soreli ripened too early but the growers pointed out that Fleurtai is even earlier. No dobt the arguments will rage and hopefully Soreli may be re-established on the list of permitted varieties.


That Vitisphere report by Michele Trevoux dated 25.10.22:

The Vin de France Agrimer Specialized Council has just launched a 5th collective plan in Languedoc Rousillon. This plan will be put into effect from 2022/23 - 2024/25. Following consultations with representatives of the entire sector (independent winegrowers, cooperatives, nurserymen, negociants etc.) the list of winning grape varieties has been reviewed. Five grape varieties were ruled out including three resistant varieties: Artaban, Soreli and Prior, as well as Chenancon and Nielluccio. On the other hand, the resistant Fleurtai variety is making its debut, For the entire Languedoc-Rousillon basin, Carignan Blanc, Muscat a petits grains, Roussanne and Marsanne become eligible, but only in the AOP areas that have requested them.

"With each colleective plan, there is some questioning of the award-winning grape varieties according to market needs. This is why we include these in our thinking" Explains Guilhem Vigroux, Chairman of the RDQ committee. Chenancon and Nielluccio were discarded because they were not sufficiently planted. The exclusion of resistant varieties is due to the results of the initial plantings. Artaban has not the required quality, Prior and Soreli were considered to ripen too early, the latter being complicated to train because of its drooping posture. "There is a strong societal expectation of a reduction in chemical treatments, business of the region is therefore very favourable to the planting of resistant varieties but with one important condition: that they produce quality wines" says Magali Jelila, director of the EUVM.

For Loic Breton, Director of VCR France, VCR being the Italian nursery which breeds Soreli, this decision is incomprehensible. "All my customers who have planted Soreli are happy with it. It is a productive grape variety that makes quality wines with a typical Sauvignon Blanc character. I've never had any negative feedback. As for its earliness, it is less than that of Fleurtai, which has just been selected. It makes no sense." Jerome Vic, winegrower-negociant who operates a 220 ha vineyard in Vias and Portiragnes is just as surprised. He planted 10 ha of Soreli and vinified his first harvest this year. "We are super satisfied with the wines we have obtained. Aromatically, it is very interesting. It is a Sauvignon Blanc profile with thiolated notes. We made a 100% Soreli Cuvee in Vin de France, which is already finished. It is an early grape variety but no more so than Sauvignon. We harvested it in the week of August 16th," he said.

The RDQ committee specifies that the grape varieties excluded from this collective plan nevertheless remain eligible under individual plans and that at the end of this plan, the list of grape varieties will be reviewed again and that the re-introduction of the discarded varieties may be examined if industry representatives so request.




 

 

 


Monday, 5 December 2022

Ligurian Trawl

 

We were off to Liguria for a long weekend in early October for someone's birthday so we thought this would be a perfect opportunity to stock up on the Lumassina (Mataòssu) and Rossese of the most excellent Paolo Ruffino of Punta Crena, an Albarola and a Bosco each in purezza, a Pollera, a Cimixa and a Barsaglina (Massaretta) from Toscana. None of these is widely available even in Liguria so we looked for sources who might be able to sell us the wines and ship them to a central point in the province where we could collect them on arrival,

An historic wine shop in Genova, Enoteca Squillari were able to get their hands on two examples of Lumassina and the Rossese all from Punta Crena, the Cimixa and an Alborola - 5 bottles in all.

Elvira Ackermann is the person to contact at Squillari. She was extremely knowledgeable and helpful. 


For the Pollera and Barsaglina (aka Massaretto) we turned to our old friend Pierangelo Affani of Vino Estremo, Fivizzano whom we last met in 2015.


Pierangelo was still going strong which these days and after Covid is a miracle.


Not only that but Pierangelo had these two wines as made by the Frate dei Monache Bianchi - a local producer whose exact same wines we had enjoyed those seven years ago. 


Now where to find a kind person willing to receive these parcels and hold them for us pending our arrival?

Elvira pours a generous aperitif.

Choosing Portofino as the destination and researching various bars which might be appropriate we came across 'Winterose' whose owner Emanuela Cattaneo had garnered an amazing 100% positive recommendations. On top of that, Sra. Cattaneo was especially lauded for her kindness so she was the one we approached. She couldnt have been more co-operative.


Winterose is indeed a very sweet place and unlike many in Portofino not an overpriced tourist trap.


There indeed were the boxes and we collected them with pleasure and relief.

Chatting to Emanuela we complimented her on the fact she had received such plaudits from her customers. She answered saying that once they had had two glasses they were more than happy to write a good review.


Another wine we had been intrigued to try was Bianchetta Genovese made from the grape of he same name. You will find it difficult to get this outside the area. It is a traditional wine of Genova and its surroundings. Surprisingly it has been proven that the Bianchetta Genovese grape is none other than Albarola. That is a surprise because Bianchetta Genovese wine is lighter and less alcoholic than you usually find in monovarietal Albarola wines from the Cinque Terre.

Just one thing was missing from our attempt to form a complete picture of rare Ligurian varieties - a wine made solely from the mysterious  Bosco variety. It became a holiday obsession to find one trudging up and down the streets in particular in Riomaggiore and Monterosso in the Cinque Terre without luck. 

We will post something on Bosco anon. That's a threat.


Paolo Ruffino of Punta Crena




Sunday, 4 December 2022

This year's vist to Grau



The temple of wine 'Grau' is situated in the town of Palafrugell, near Begur in the province of Girona in Catalunya, Spain.

Generous friends have invited us in past years to stay with them at their house nearby so we always make the pilgrimage to the cavernous Grau and never return empty handed or disappointed. It really is a destination in itself. You would not be totally mad to take a Ryanair flight to Girona, stock up at Grau and return the same day all for the price of shipping and tax on a 12 bottle case. UK customs allow 12 bottles of wine duty free. If you ship the same 12 bottles costs can amount to up to £90 plus the shipping costs.



Apart from anything else, which other wine shop has their own row of vines outside?



Surprising Dynamic Vines sticker on back.

Grau has only a relatively small selection of natural wines but among them we found Oriol Artigas's 'La Rumbera.' Oriol Artigas is a famous producer in the Alella region. His story of great successes from a standing start is fascinating. However, a couple of years ago he found a strange new mildew in his vineyard which he had never seen before. It destroyed his entire production. Such are the esteem and affection in which his colleagues, agents and importers hold him that they paid for his missed vintage anyway so he could recover and repay them in the future.

'La Rumbera' ('The Rumble' in Catalan) was his staple white made from Xarel-lo. It is really delicious although unmistakenly a natural wine. This may put off anyone still unable to accept the taste of wine as it was through history until relatively recently.

 


The other Xarel-lo we bought was by one of our other favourite Catalan producers Vinyes Singulars. This was actually Xarel-lo Vermell and was quite marvellous at only 11.8%. It is remarkable wow Xarel-lo and Xarel-lo Vermell have been recognised only recently as the great varieties they are. We especially like the Vermell (= red in Catalan). Perhaps the grapes used in Cava have been unjustly overlooked given the fact that Cava has lagged behind other sparkling wines in recent times viz. Prosecco. We see Trepat also emerging from the fog as well. We're not so sure about Macabeu and Parellada although some good examples of these varieties in purezza are coming through.
 
Other purchases from Grau included a Callet from Mallorca and a €.2 white from a bin of remainedered wines.

In terms of rare grape varieties, on this trip we didn't find anything over and above the wines we had bought on previous occasions (see this Blog). there were two wines we had heard about which we were hoping to find; the first was Jaen Tinto or Tinta (synonyms Calagraño Negro, Jaén Negro, Jaén Negro de Granada, Jaén Negro de Sevilla, Jaén Negro de Seville, Jaén Noir, Jaén Prieto, Jaén Prieto de Grenade, Jaén Prieto de Seville, Jaén Prieto Tinto, Morisca Negra, Negro und Tinto Jaén - not to be confused with Mencia which has the synonym Jaen Tinto).

The second more surprisingly was a Nebbiolo made in Spain. The knowledgeable staff at Grau had never heard of these and may have not believed they existed although our information was copper-bottomed. 

 


In fact both these wines are made by an interesting producer called Pedro Olivares in Andalucia. Olivares devoted himself to rare grape varieties and original vinifications such as a red sparkling version of Jaen Tinta.

100% Nebbiolo - 'unico in Espana'

 and the Jaen Tinta;

Jaén Tinta 2021
The Jaen of Portugal (mainly Dao) is Mencia, not this one.

Saturday, 3 December 2022

New varieties for Provence


 


First Bordeaux, then Beaujolais and no doubt there will be other wine regions. Now Provence is looking at new varieties to provide drought and disease-resistant grames crops in these times of climate change.

This process seems to have been going on for quite a while already. Amazingly some of these new varieties are already permitted;


Permitted

Agiorgitiko

Calabrese (Nero D'Avola)

Moschofilero

Verdejo

Xinomavro

 

The latest trials are for

Barbaroux (red)

The ever helpful Wein Plus Lexikon tells us there are about 50 synonyms for Barbaroux. They include Barbarons, Barbarossa, Grec Rosé, Grec Rouge, Gros Barbaroux, Hellroter Gänsfüßer, Merveille, Plant du Pauvre, Raisin Monstrueux, Regina Rossa, Rote Hammelshode, Roussée, Rousselet and Uva Barbarossa. We must be careful here because Grec Rouge and Rose du Var (see below) are have the synonym Barbarossa but are different varieties. 

Brun Fourca (red)

Synonyms include Brun d’Auriol, Brun de Farnous, Brun Fourcat, Brunfourka, Caula, Caula Noir, Caula Noir de Vaucluse, Farnous, Flouron, Mançonnet, Moulan, Moureau, Mourrastel Flourat, Mouzeau, Mulon und Plant de Bordeaux.

Carignan Blanc (white)

See this Blog for Rall's fabulous Carignan Blanc (South Africa).  Synonyms include Cariñena Blanca, Fehér Carignan and Karijan. Wein Plus warns us not to think Mazuelo Blanco is the same grape, Mazuelo being a Spanis synonym for Carignan of course.

Clairette Rose (white)

Listed as white, this mutation of Clairette Blanc has pink berries and the synonyms Alsacia, Blanquette de Limoux, Blanquette Rose, Clairette Rouge, Kleret Rozov, Picapoll Rosa, Piros Clairette und Piros Kleret.

The synonym Blanquette de Limoux is confusing because the AOC sparkling wine is named Blanquette de Limoux and the grape (at least 90%) is just Blanquette,  So the synonym for Clairette Rose called Blanquette de Limoux refers only to the later and not to the wine called Blanquette de Limoux. At least that is what we have understood. It may not be important but do let us know if this is wrong.

Colombaud (white)

Not to be confused with Colombard).

Synonyms; Aubié, Aubier, Aubier Franc Blanc, Blanquette de Lavilledieu, Bouteillan, Bouteillan Blanc, Brachet, Colombeau, Couloumbaou, Couloumbat Blanc, Coumbeau and Colombaud du Var. 

Counoise (red)

Well known grape of Chateauneuf du Pape and found surprisingly frequently in California.

Aubon, Caula, Conese, Coneze, Connoges, Connoise, Counèse, Counoïse, Counoïso, Counoueiso, Damas Noir, Grosse Rogettaz, Guénoise, Moustardier, Quenoise, Ribier, Rivier, Riviere.

Grenache Blanc (white)

Needs no introduction other than to say what a great grape this is!

Garnacha Blanca, Rool Grenache, Silla Blanc, Sillina Lanc, Alicant Belyi, Gkrenas Mplan, Grenash Beli, Grenash Belyi, Grenash Bjal, Belan, Belon, Alicante Blanca, Bernacha Blanca, Garnacha, Garnacho Blanco, Garnatxa, Garnatxa Blanca, Lladanor Blanco, Sillina Lanc and Fehér Grenache.

Grenache Gris (white)

Grey Grenache, Garnacha Roja, Grenache Rouge, Rosco dos Pinheiro, Garnacha Dorada, Garnacha Gris, Garnacha Rioja, Garnacha Roya, Garnacho Rojo, Garnatxa Gris, Garnatxa Roja, Piros Grenache and Szürke Grenache.

Mavrud (red)

Kachivela, Kacivela, Kativela, Marvud, Mawrud, Svinarska Loza, Svinjarska Loza, Tsiganka, Karvouniaris, Mavro, Mavroude, Mavroudi, Mavroudi Boulgarias, Mavroudion, Mavroudi Voulgarias  and Mavroud.

Mourvaison (red)

Marvaison, Mouenc, Mourvedoum, Mourvedoun, Mourveson, Mourvesoum, Mourvezon, Negrau, Négrette und Raisin des Maures. However we are warned not to confuse Mouvaison with the Negrette of Fonton.

Mourvedre Blanc (white)

This is an obscure one. Presumably a colour mutation of the well known red grape Mourvedre. No one has anything on Mourvedre Blanc. There is a white colour mutation of Mourvedre used in Cognac with the name Balzac Blanc which may show that a white colour mutation of Mourvedre is a thing.

Mourvedre Gris (white)

Even more obscure than Mourvedre Blanc. Wein Lexikon suggests this originates from Spain. That's about it.

Pinotage (red)

Signature grape of South Africa. A crossing of Pinot Noir and Hermitage, aka Cinsault.  The latter is also known as Perold's Hermitage. 

 

Abraham Isaak Perold obtained the variety in 1926. He also brought cuttings of 177 existing foreign varieties to South Africa and was active in the foundation of the KWV co-operative (Kooperatiewe Wijnbowers Vereniging van Zuid Afrika).

Plant Droit (red)

Cinsaut Droit, Cinsault Droit, Espanenc, Plant Dressé and Garnacha Francesa.

Rousseli (Rose du Var)

Barbaroux, Grec Rose und Roussanne du Var. 

An existing grape used in the Var (Provence) for Rose wines. Plantings are down from 1,600 ha (end of 1960s) to 54 ha (2016). It is also used as a table grape.

Tempranillo (red)

Needs no introduction. Synonyms are manifold;

Malvasia Nera (huh? That we didn't know), Malvasia Nera di Lecce, Negretto, Santo Stefano, Valdepeñas, Aragón, Aragones, Aragonez, Aragonez da Ferra, Aragonez de Elvas, Arinto Tinto, Olho de Lebre, Roriz, Tinta Aragonez, Tinta Roriz, Tinta Santiago, Albillo Negro, Aldepenas, Arauxa, Arganda, Botón de Gallo, Castellana, Cencibal, Cencibel, Cencibera, Chinchillana, Chinchillano, Chinchilyano, Cupani, De Por Aca, Escobera, Grenache de Logrono, Jacibera, Jacibiera, Jacivera, Negra, Negra de Madrid, Negra de Mesa, Ojo de Liebre, Piñuela, Sensibel, Tempranilla, Tempranillo de la Rioja, Tempranillo de Perralta, Tempranillo de Rioja, Tempranillo de Rioza, Tempranillo Rioja, Tempranillo Tinta, Tempranillo Tinto, Tinta de Nava, Tinta del País, Tinta del Toro, Tinta do Inacio, Tinta do País, Tinta Fina, Tinta Madrid, Tinto Aragónez, Tinto Basto, Tinto de Madrid, Tinto del País, Tinto Fino, Tinto Madrid, Tinto País, Tinto Ribiera, Ull de Llebre, Verdiell, Vid de Aranda Jacibiera, Jacivera and wierdly Garnacho Foño in Argentina and Chile.

Teoulier (red)

Grand Téoulier, Gros Téoulier, Manosquen, Manosquin, Petit Téoulier, Plant de Manosque, Plant Dufour, Teinturier Téoulier, Téoulier, Thuillier, Thuillier Noir und Trouillere

Touriga Nacional (red)

Could be called the signature grape of Portugal. There are surprisingly few synonyms, especially in comparison with Tempranillo;

Azal Espanhol, Bical, Bical Tinto, Mortagua, Mortagua Preto, Touriga, Touriga Fina, Tourigo, Tourigo Antiguo, Tourigo do Dão, Touriga National, Carabuñera.

Zinfandel (red)

Signature grape of California of course.

Crljenak Kastelanski and Tribidrag are the original Croatian names for this variety - a fact we now know thanks to the work of Dr. Carole Meredith and John Bowersat the University of California at Davis between 1994 and 2011. It is also known as Primitivo in Puglia as everyone knows.

As can be imagined, many of these are obscure local varieties.

All this is nothing if not adventurous. Go Provence!

 

 

Tuesday, 22 November 2022

Pineau D'Aunis from California!

 


We couldn't believe our eyes; a Pineau D'Aunis from California. Less surprising was the fact it is one of Matthew Rorick's 'Rare Creatures.' Matthew's 'Forlorn Hope' wines feature pretty regularly in this Blog. They are right up our street. Matthew has gor our number; he finds unusual varieties in old Californian vineyards and makes always delicious but small quantities for those of us who don't want just another Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay or God forbid Pinot Noir. However, this comes from the Rorick Heritage Vineyard so is presumably something that Matthew planted there.

 

Part of the excitement is how to get our hands on Forlorn Hope wines. Les Caves de Pyrene were importing some of them. A Dutch company did so too. No one was taking any interest in ths Pineau D'Aunis called 'Valentin.' So a challenge. 'What to do?, what to do?' as Mel Brooks might have said.

By chance a close family member was planning a trip to the Santa Cruz area so we were able to buy a bottle of Valentin (mysterious choice of name !) and have it sent to him there.It all worked out well and he was able to bring it back to London in his luggage - no tax payable.

We'll need to find a good opportunity to open it and will report back with our impressions when we do.

 




Note: Valentin was the code name the Nazi's gave to the submarine pens and factory in Bremen. Matthew worked on US submarines when in the navy, but this is not a likely reason to call his Pineau D'Aunis Valentin

The meaning of Valentin (from the Latin) is 'worthy, strong or powerful.'

Goethe's Valentin is the vengeful brother of Margarethe in 'Faust.' Also in Gounod's opera of course but not in Schnittke's 'Historia von D. Johann Fausten'  and in Busoni's Doktor Faust is only called The girl's brother, a soldier.'

The drawing of a (big cat?) skull with flowers growing out of it is also enigmatic.

Doesn't ring any bells really. 

Valentin is a synonym for both Vermentino and Roter Veltliner. That can't be it.

Then there is St. Valentine of course. Maybe this?