Some wine shows we didn't write up at the time. # 3. London Wine Fair 2026

 

Another LWF, other discoveries. This time we were delighted to brush up on our Turkish grape varieties of which there are many and of which we know nothing.

Karasakiz 

 

  

and

Increasingly rare, Karasakiz is nothing if not versatile having been used for Brandy, Raki, sweet wine, pink wine and what not. It is losing ground to Cabernet Sauvignon. The 43 ha. reported in 2010 are now down to 4, so it was surprising to find not one but two versions here at the LWF.

 

Papazkarasi 

Another versatile grape this time making a drink called Hardaliye which involves mustard seeds, sour cherry leaves and benzoic acid. Wines are dark and powerful. There are about 204 ha. of this variety.

 

Emir 

Emir is one of the most important white varieties in Turkey although there are only around 90 ha. It is often used in the production of Sparkling wine and often blended with  Narince or Sultaniye.

 

Other non-Turkish varieties of note at the fair included one of our favourites Tinta Barroca. This has been used mainly in the production of Port or Port-like wines in Portugal of course and South Africa for example. It is difficult to understand why more straight Tinta Barroca wines are not made. What a star!

Now here was an extremely rare variety, Mouhtaro. Encountering this alone was worth visiting the fair. Mouhtaro is so rare that it doesn't even make Wein Plus Lexikon, never mind Wine Grapes. 

It is a dark skinned red Greek grape grown around the village of Askri in the Valley of the Muses near Thebes. 

Apparently Mouhtaro was saved from extinction by the Zacharias family at the Muses Estate and also by efforts of those at the Samartzis Estate. 

It produces medium to full-bodied red wines with a deep purple colour. 

You can buy a version by Samartzis at Tanners in the UK which is very enterprising of them. 

So the rewards of LWF 2026 were plenty. Nonetheless we remembered the old days (now) when the show was big enough to make use of the balcony as well as the ground floor. Maybe next year?

 

Some wine shows we didn't write up at the time. # 1. Manchester wine crawl.

 

On the way to lovely Manchester

Reading about Kelly Bishop and her Manchester Wine Tours in Purple Pages we got the idea of visiting a grandson who was at the university there and taking him on one of her crawls. 

In the music business we had undergone numerous trips to the old Free Trade Hall for concerts with the Halle Orchestra but hadn't been back for about 20 years. The city was a black spot on the map for us. Dingy, run down, miserable.  

 

Manchester now. Vaut le voyage.

What a difference. It could have been the Emerald City. It didn't hurt that the weather was glorious.

Manchester Wine Tours owner Kelly is a food and wine writer from Manchester. She has written for Time Out, VICE, Manchester’s Finest and Confidentials. She is also a qualified wine nerd who teaches at the Manchester Wine School at and is a member of the Association of Wine Educators.

 

We were told to meet outside the Halle Orchestra's newly converted St. Peter's rehearsal  facility in the Ancoats district which was also impressive. From there a group of us were going to be walking from venue to venue across the city getting a guided tour from Kelly at the same time. 

 Kelly did the pouring while giving us interesting and sometimes hilarious comments. She is a card, a perfect host.

 

This stop was the old Mackie Mayor covered market with numerous bars and eateries. What a venue!

There we were served what turned out to be quite the star of the show, Harrow and Hope's sparkling Pinot Meunier Rose. Amazing and ironic that we found this in Manchester when it is produced practically next door to us in Buckinghamshire.

 

 There were several different venues with different wines and 'bits.'

The grand finale was at Pep Guardiola's restaurant 'Tast,' now sadly permanently closed.

This Cava was on his list. Although 'entry level, it is one of the best we have tasted.

Some wine shows we didn't write up at the time # 2, London Wine Fair 2025

 

London Wine Fair 2025

There are always some left field wines at the LWF and 2025 was no exception.

 

 

At the Japanese Liquor Store stand, our first Japanese Red wine.

Bailey A Dry

 

Our first Japanese red wine.

The label says ' "Fox Village is the name of the winery in Japan which is located in Yamanashi prefecture, famous for its grape (sic) and winemaking."

It claims Muscat Bailey A is native to Japan.

Bailey A or more properly Muscat Bailey A is the main grape for Japanese red wines. It is a Japanese hybrid obtained in 1927 from Triumph and Extra where Triumph is not Triomph d'Alsace but a Seibel product and Extra is a Big Berry and Triumph hybrid. Big Berry is a Vitis Lincecumii grapevine found by one Thomas Volney Munson (1843 - 1903) in the US. Why on earth it was found necessary to choose this unbelievably involved and obscure grape to combat the difficult climate of Japan is hard to imagine. Suffice it to say this wine tasted like wine. 

If you would like to taste Japanese Muscat Bailey A, you can buy a bottle from the Japan Centre in London, 35A Panton St. SW1Y 4EA at £65 a bottle. They also have a Koshu at £35.

 

There was also a Japanese Sparkling wine called Bloom made with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir...and...Sake (8%)! That was original, to be sure.
 

 

 On to China.

 Not so original Cabernet Franc.

 

 Interesting Franco-Chinese initiative: Marselan with bits of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache.

 

 On to Kosovo or Kosova as they call it

 

 

here we though we had discovered a Kosovan variety hitherto unknown to anyone but Kallmet just turns out to be their synonym for Kadarka.

 

 

It was interesting to see they grow Fleurtai and Cabernet Volos in Kosova. 

 

 It always seems miraculous to see Ukraine at these shows but here they were in force.

 Serbia has some good producers. We looked in vain for our favourite Oszkar Maurer.

 

 

 Good to see Israel represented. Feldstein's Dabouki/Marawi/Jandali is a real rarity. 

Their Gilgamesh is a Carignan, Argaman, Syrah, Cab S, and Grenache blend.

Kedem is big in Kosher wine worldwide.

 

 All in all a good event in 2025.

 

 

 

The strange case of the English Samso

 

On one of our periodic trips to Cornwall we paid a visit to Porthleven and were glad we did. Excellent nosh at The Square, exciting breakers rolling in outside the inner harbour soaking walkers with spray (fun to watch) and generally pleasurable atmosphere. They do say though that it gets rammed in summer with people some of which are pretty yobbish.

A short stroll up the hill we came across a so-called Bottle Shop 'Bolla.' No idea if this is named after the renowned Veneto producer of the same name but whatever, it looked interesting with people eating in the front and indeed, quite a few bottles on the side.

Among these there were three bottles under the heading 'English Red' that looked mysterious. The labels gave nothing away so we asked at the counter and were referred to a very pleasant lady who despite having the air of someone about to leave in a hurry kindly informed is that the bottle on the left was Cabernet Franc, the one in the middle was 'a blend,' she knew not what of and the one on the right was (wait for it) Samso! I asked if the Cab Franc and Samso were grown in England, maybe in Polytunnels but she wasn't sure. She was kind enough to give us a 20% 'End of Season' discount which was appreciated.

Even so these three were not cheap but we absolutely had to have the English Samso. Samso is a Spanish synonym for Cinsault by the way but never matter.

Further examination of the label was tricky. You needed a microscope but armed with a magnifying glass we were able to make out the words Ham Street Wines. Firing off an emeail to them we got a reply from 'Lucy' by return saying they didn't grow Samso and the wine was Pinot Meunier.

Pinot Meunier is one of our favourites so we were happy even though a Samso gown in England with or without a Polytunnel would have been quite something.