Tuesday, 8 July 2025

The filling of the gaps, 2025.

 

 

Filling the gaps, 2025


Vine-Works 12.5                  31 x Divico (Gamaret and Bronner)

                                             25 x Pinot Iskra (Pinot Blanc)

                    21.5                  25 x Souvignier Gris (from Rebschule Freytag)


Ryedale Vineyard 29.5         31 x Divico

                                             13 x Muscaris


Rebschule Freytag 8.6           2 x Cabaret Noir

                                              10 x Souvignier Gris

                                              15 x Calardis Blanc

                                              16 x Cabernet Jura


The Gardening Club.            2 x Regent


Toad Hall Garden Centre      1 x Black Hamburgh


Total 171 vines.

 


We presume every vineyard has 'casualties' year upon year. Vines don't live for ever and when the vineyard comes to life in the spring, casualties become apparent. By then many vine nurseries are sold out so ordering small quantities to fill the gaps is tricky to say the least. 

 

As in previous years Will Mower of Vine-Works/The Vinehouse UK has come to the rescue. Being an 'experimental vineyard' we chose two new varieties to plant. At the Vineyard and Winery Show in November last year we were very impressed by the many English wines now made from the Divico grape. We had tried Divico before with 6 vines procured at great expense from Switzerland. They all died. Now Divico is being propagated by vine nurseries elsewhere. Our 31vines from The Vine-House UK came from a French 'pepiniere.' 


 

Another standout at the Vineyard and Winery Show was VCR's Pinot Iskra - a hybrid of Pinot Blanc with a resistance partner. 

 


We were especially delighted that Will managed to secure a bundle of 25 Pinot Iskra from VCR France. VCR is 'Vivai Cooperativi Rauscedo,' the world's biggest vine nursery. 

Will was able to offer us 13 Muscaris vines as well, so we were well on our way to getting a full house, or so we thought.

 

While planting these 71 beauties, we discovered further gaps so the hunt was on to seek out more vines. After some intense googling we came across the most unlikely supply source: a vineyard in Yorkshire.


At Ryedale Vineyard just outside York, there is a wonderful man called Jon Fletcher who has set up his own extensive vineyard as well as helping others to do so in his area and as far north as Scotland. Jon doesn't seem bothered with what goes on down South such is his independence in concentrating on northerly opportunities. 

 


He has become an official importer with his own EORI import license and was happy to sell us more Divico and some Souvignier Gris. Souvignier Gris and Muscaris have become a recognised blending partnership so we were very happy indeed to add more of this to the vineyard


Rather than have Jon send us the vines by Parcel Force, we decided to go and fetch them from him personally and take a peek at his Yorkshire vineyard and maybe buy some of his wine.



Pinot Meunier

Madeleine Angevine



Fruehburgunder

Pinot Noir


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

York is only 2 hours from London these days and hiring a car from York Station for the day could be done for as little as £40. 

We bought Jon's Rose and two reds

The labels say 'From God's own country'
 

Originally we planned to visit two other vineyards while up there but massive traffic jams in the York area put a stop to that. Yorkshire Heart Vineyard at Nun Monkton (very near York) and Dunesforde Vineyard at Upper Dunsforth just a bit further out from the city. 

Now we had the bit firmly between our teeth as it were. There's nothing like close contact with the ground to reveal yet further planting opportunities and indeed, we spotted further gaps and spots to the unexpected total of 31. Where to get this final batch of vines? 

 


Sourcing from Yorkshire gave us confidence nothing was impossible so spreading our net further we found a further 10 Souvignier Gris remaining in the bins of a German 'Rebschule' plus 15 Calardis Blanc to supplement our existing stock of 25 vines and 2 Cabernet Noir which went neatly to filling remaining gaps in our planting of that grape. 

 


Furthermore, we were offered 16 Cabernet Jura. There were one or two Cabernet Jura vines in our vineyard planted after our visit to Valentin Blattner, the private Swiss grape breeder who had also bred Cabernet Noir and others we had  from him (see our post of 20.5.17). Of course we accepted these despite the fact our experience of wine made from Cabernet Jura had not been very promising.

 

Getting these German vines to us was tricky but we finagled a hand-over at Toddington service station on the M1 while some other vines were out for distribution elsewhere in the UK. This was becoming fun. 

The many of the holes for these vines had been dug previously  but many had not. Our soil is heavy clay with some shingle so help was sought. Unfortunately we were let down at the last moment so a great deal of frenetic digging had to be done. 

Less fun. At first it seemed maybe an Auger would help dig the holes. We had used this method in the past when a team from Romania had come to do planting. That was earlier when the ground was friable but now in June the earth was hard as nails. It didn't matter that we couldn't even get the Auger we had hires to fire up it wouldn't have helped anyway. 

Faithfull Digging Bar 14lb 60" x 1 ...
Faithfull Pole Axe with spike and chisel ends

Taking it back to the hire company we saw some pole axes for sale. Remembering someone had used one previously on our land we bought one and it turned out to be just what we needed. Fun restored.

So with all the new vines put to bed we had to start placing rabbit guards on the first vines which were already starting to sprout. Again getting down and dirty, we spotted some yet further planting opportunities but only very few. In a fit of ultimate madness we bought a handsome Black Hamburgh vine from the local garden centre. That was an impulse buy to be sure but we had had a Black Hamburgh, aka Trollinger, aka Schiava before and had observed how the wasps went crazy for it. It will be interesting to see if they are still interested. It might keep them off the other vines. We also spotted little Regent vines for £7,99 at another garden centre and bought 2 of those. Very reasonable.


 

 

The Children of Extinct Trees

 

 The gardens at Ninfa are said to be the most romantic in the world. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Certainly many vistas could be the backdrop for Belcanto operas.

One of the most interesting aspects of this huge park, the site of a medieval city abandoned  in the 15th century, was the so-called gene bank to preserve the genes of otherwise extinct trees, in this case Oak trees.

Oak is a suitable subject for a wine blog even if the species represented here will probably never be used for making barrels. Not many of us will be around in any case even if they are. 

For us even more relevant to this blog are the efforts to save ancient varieties of oak from extinction. Just as moving as when we record the efforts of winegrowers to save grape varieties for posterity.

So here are the 9 species currently planted in the gene bank.

 

 


 

Children of extinct trees

The garden of Ninfa hosts a gene bank to preserve the genes of the plants of the future.

Starting from 2024, the Garden of Ninfa – a natural monument where poetry embraces architecture - hosts the children of the great trees that are no longer with us

Welcome to the Children of Extinct Trees

The Garden of Ninfa hosts a gene bank to preserve the genes of the plants of the future Starting from 2024, the Garden of Ninfa - a natural monument where poetry embraces architecture - hosts the children of the great trees that are no longer with us, but which were the most resistant and suitable plants to combat climate change. This is why we wanted to save their offspring and part of their DNA as natural heirs from extinction by creating a gene bank that will be fundamental in mitigating the environmental stresses taking place in our era. Thanks to the collaboration between the Roffredo Caetani Foundation (to whose family we owe the optimisation of this unique place seven centuries ago) and the association "Patriarchi della Natura in Italia" (Patriarchs of Nature in Italy) these small trees of great genetic value will grow and help us to better face our future.

 





Farnia di Meduna di Livenza
Meduna di Livenza English oak
(Quercus robur L.)

Comune / Location: Meduna di Livenza (TV)
Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: 5,8 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: circa 300 anni / about 300 years
Splendido esemplare monumentale che troneggia nel giardino
della cinquecentesca Villa Weil, nel comune di Meduna
di Livenza. Si tratta probabilmente di una delle farnie più bélle
e grandi del Veneto, ma purtroppo è ormai giunta alla fine
dei suoi/giorni.


A splendid mohumental specimen towering in the garden
of the 16th-century Villa Weil, in the city of Meduna di Livenza.
It is probably one of the most beautiful and largest English oaks
in the Veneto region, but unfortunately it has now reached the end
of its days.

 





Leccio di S. Francesco
Holm Oak of St. Francis
(Quercus ilex L.)

Comune / Locarion: Sermoneta (LT)
Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: 5,1 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: circa 528 anni / approx. 528 years

The plant is linked to St Francis and is said to have been planted
in 1495 at the behest of Pope Alexander VI, on the occasion
of the donation of the convent ef Sermoneta to the Minor Friars.
Unfortunately, the patriarch has lost a large branch and
is unbalanced, to the point that they had to build a scaffold to support
him. But it does not look like he will be able so resist for long.

 

 






Rovere di Caronia
Caronia durmast oak
(Quercus petraea subp. austrotyrrhenica)

Comune / Location: Caronia (ME)
Età stimata / Estimated age: 400 anni / years


Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: oltre 5 mt / over 5 mt
Caduta probabilmente nel 2021 / Probably fell in 2021

The mother plant grew in the extensive forests of the Nebrodi
Natural Park, where there are several monumental oaks that have
survived human action. During an excursion organised
in the summer of 2021, the large durmast oak was found
on the ground with its trunk broken; next to it were some small
seedlings that were recovered like this specimen.








Cerro di Amatrice
Amatrice Turkey oak
(Quercus cerris L.)

Comune / Loçation: Amatrice (RI)
Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: oltre 7 mt / over 7 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: circa 600 anni / about 600 years
Caduta nel 2021 / Fell in 2021

It was the largest and oldest Turkey oak in Italy that had withstood
even the great earthquake of 2016, but died a few years ago.
In all likelihood, this small seedling daughter of the old Turkey oak
is the only surviving offspring that will be able to preserve the genetic
makeup of the mother plant. If we had not reproduced
its DNA would have become extinct forever.








Quercia delle Streghe
Witches' Oak
(Quercus puberscens Willd.)
Comune / Location: Loreto Aprutino (PE)
Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk cireumference: 6,5 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: circa 420 annă / approx. 420 years
Caduta nel 2023 7 Fell in 2023
Una delle più belle e grandi querce d'Abruzzo cresceva in località
Passo Cordone (Pescara). A causa di lavori agricoli probabilmente
sono state tagliate alcune grosse radici. Una conseguente potatura
ha farto si che questo monumento della natura sia crollato esanime
afterra nel 2023. L'associazione Patriarchi della Natura aveva
recuperato alcune plantine nel 2022; eà oogi possiamo conservare
M getmoplasma di questa mapriarca.
One of the most beautiful and largest oaks in Abruzzo which used
to grow ar Passo Cordone (Pescara). Due to agricultural work, some large
roots were probably cut off. Subsequent pruning caused this monument
of nature to collapse lifelessly to the ground in 2023. The Patriarchs
of Nature association had recovered some seedlings in 2022, so today
we can preserve the germplasm of this matriarch.







Farnia di Forlimpopoli
English Oak of Forlimpopoli

(Quercus robur L.)

Comune / Location: Forlimpopoli (FC)
* Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: quasi 4 mt / almost 4 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: circa 200 anni / about 200 years

This oak, unfortunately, has now reached the end of its days: in fact
it has begun to dry out part of its branches. Since it grows inside
the urban park of the hometown of the famous gastronome Artusi,
for safety reasons it has been surrounded by a fence that prevents
it from being approached. This is why it is important to preserve
its genetic makeup before it disappears forever.








Cerro di Brienza
Brienza Turkey oak
(Quercus cerris L.)

Comune / Location: Brienza (PZ)
Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: 7,8 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: quasi 500 anni / almost 500 years
Caduta nel 2020 / Fell in 2020

The mother tree grew in the municipality of Brienza, in the Cerasa
valley and was one of the largest Turkey oaks in Italy Although
its trunk was hollow it resisted until the summer of 2020 when
it collapsed to the ground. Fortunately, the Petriarchi of Nature
association had visited this monumental tree and bad taken
a seedling, thus saving the matriarch’s genetic makeup.








Rovere di Mozzo
Mozzo durmast oak
(Quercus petraea Matt.)

Comune / Location: Mozzo (BG)
Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: oltre 5 mt / over 5 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: circa 220 anni / approx. 220 years

The plant - a gigantic monumental oak - grew near an ancient villa
on a hill near the town of Mozzo. Today it no longer exists because
it was burnt down a few years ago. Unfortunately, man's ignorance
knows no bounds, but luck would have it that at its feet were born
some of its offspring, such as this one that is standing here.







Rovere Tiglieto
Tiglieto durmast oak
(Quercus petraea Matt.)

Comune / Location: Tiglieto (GE)
Circonferenza del tronco / Trunk circumference: 4,7 mt
Età stimata / Estimated age: circa 300 anni / approx. 300 years

This monumental oak has a curious history: it is said, in fact, to have
been planted by Napoleon's troops during the Italian campaign
in 1800. This is due to the discovery of a horseshoe in its trunk,
baring the imperial symbol 'N'. The horseshoe had probably been
substituted to a horse in the troops' force.

 


 

 

In search of Nero Buono

 Our post dated 21.10.10:

The only known facts about Nero Buono seem to be that it is rarely found, that it comes from the area around a place called Cori and that it is "used as a blending-component in the red Cori DOC. The grape is said to add good colour, concentration and tannins to the blend. With this grape added the wines ability to age increases." The London merchant Slurp has a version from Poggio le Volpi. Their website says "The Poggio le Volpi estate was established in the 1990s by Felice Mergé. The vineyards are situated in Frascati (Lazio). This is an elegant and velvety wine with a lingering finish showing aromas of berries, chocolate, liquorice and coffee in the background." £21.60. Our version was considerably cheaper quite understandably. It seems a pattern is emerging in our discoveries of worthwhile new grapes. So many have been used to add colour or body to blends. We only have to think of Alicante Bouschet, Persan, Ancelotta etc. We have similar hopes for Nero Buono.

 

A supermarket shelf in Rome in 2010 with Cantina Cincinnato's range of Nero Buono
 

D'Agata calls it 'an up and coming variety' and also 'Nero Buono is one of Italy's least-known native grape varieties, but as is often the case, one that has a lot to say...the fact is that Nero Buono ...can be the source of excellent, midweight red wines.'

In 2010 we wrote 'Winesearcher Pro gives only two sources of Nero Buono wines currently available in the UK.' Today there are still only two entries. One actually because both are for the same wine, the Lepino by Giangirolami (see below).




 

 

In 2010 we had bought this bottle of Nero Buono di Cori at Enoteca Costantini in Rome having never heard of the variety. It lay abandoned at the back of a cupboard for over a decade. When we finally got around to opening it expectations were not high. However the experience was quite wonderful and remained with us until the day a new trip to Rome came up in May 2025. Instead of fondling every bottle in sight we decided to concentrate on Nero Buono. We assumed that in Rome itself there would be plenty of versions by myriad producers. 

Part of our itinerary was to visit the gardens of Ninfa and by good luck we dicovered that the town of Cori, epicentre of Nero Buono was on the way. 

So making the slight side-trip to Cori we expected to supplement our researches with a few bottles not available elsewhere. Cori itself was not very promising with surprisingly drab outskirts and no enoteca or even supermarket to be seen. 

 


Not wishing to subject our group tto a Slotovino wild goose chase we resumed our route, passing plenty of vineyards 




Pergola
 

Some of the vines were Pergola trained. At a guess these may have been for the other speciality of the area, Bellone which D'Agata describes as magical...outstanding.

Not far along the road we came to a huge Cash and Carry advertising food and wine.


Here the chap in the shorts showed us shelves of wine from all over Italy but no Nero Buono. Somewhat dejected we asked if we could buy a couple of bottles of mineral water. He wrenched two from a wall of Aqua Minerale and walked off refusing any payment. Perhaps he was embarrassed that the wonderful local wine was practically all sent to the cooperative, Cantina Cincinnato?

Cantina Cincinnato where the wine is made
 

In fact Cincinnato is an excellent cooperative and had received a write-up un Jancis Robinson's Purple Pages by Tara Q. Thomas just two months before our trip. The cooperative was founded in 1947. They advise more than 100 winemakers farming some 550 ha of vines of different sorts. Nero Buono comprises only 85 ha. 25 years ago there were just 3 producers working with this variety. Now there are more than 10.


 

Cincinnato also have a wine resort hotel in Cori which we would like to have checked out. We had met people at Ninfa who were staying there and had recommended it highly.  

 


 

 Back in Rome we checked out The two main winemerchants, Enoteca Costantini and Trimani.




 

 

Costantini had nothing but at Trimani we found this Nero Buono made not by Cincinnato but the Lepino by Giangirolami referred to above.




  


 However, nil desperandum as the Romans say, we found this tip in D'Agata:

'In one of Italy's many complex bureaucratic intrigues, the DOC Cori wine calls surprisingly for only a maximum of 40 percent Nero Buono. In the nearby Castelli Romani DOC Rosso, where the variety has always been historically less important than in Cori, it can be used for 100 percent. Go figure.' 

D'Agata adds ominously that 'because Nero Buono is an up-and-coming variety, expect an increase...in wines not monovarietal, containing large doses of Montepulciano...please pay attention to the name of the producer for wines labelled Nero Buono, as not everyone's heart is in the right place.' 

Reverting to supermarket shelves we found this bottle labelled 'Terre Romane Castelli Romani Rosso.'  

We asked staff if they knew if this was Nero Buono but they did not. Amazingly there was a telephone number on the back label which we called. Astonishingly, even though it was a Saturday afernoon, our call was answered and unbelievably, the voice on the other end confirmed that the bottle contained Nero Buono 100%. 



In the same modest supermarket we bought a bottle of Cincinnato's Polluce

 



and their Ercole, both mentioned in the article by Tara Q. Thomas and reviewed by Tim Jackson MW who used the phrase 'Well done this coop' in his review of the Polluce 2017 above and she of our 2006 Nero Buono also above in which she wrote 'reminds me a little of Aglianico (high praise).'