Friday 16 June 2017

Slotovino roll call of Honour

As well as the Slotovino Hall of Fame for rare grape varities discovered on our journeys, we try to pay homage to those pioneers who rescue endangered species.

In 2010 we tried to honour the following. It's worth reproducing the whole post since it has been buried under 7 years' verbiage.

To these we'd like to add

Andre Manz (Dona Fatima)                          Jampal
Plaimont Producteurs                                    Arrufiac
Chanton Visp                                                  Resi
Longanesi                                                        Longanesi
A.A. La Sabbiona                                           Savignon Rosso
Alfonso Soranzo                                             Cavrara, Pattaresca,Turchetta
Ognibene family                                             Negretto/Negrettino
Cinque Campi                                                 Malbo gentile
Alberto and Claudia Peretti                          Temarina Nera
Bernabe Navarro                                             Fourcayat
Pierpaolo Lorieri                                             Vermentino Nero
Leonardo Piertafesa, Tenuta le Querce         Tamurro Nero
Hardimos Hatzidakis                                      Assyritiko, Mavrotragono
Gianluca Bisol                                                  Dorona

As well as the above, here is our embryonic Roll Call of Honour together with the grapes relevant to each name;

Giuseppe Apicella, Alfonso Arpino and Luigi Reale - Tintore  
Emilio Bulfon - Cividin, Cjanorie, Forgiarin, Moscato Rosa, Picolit Neri, Sciaglin, Ucelut  
Casali Viticultori - Spergola  
Francisco Figueiredo and others - Ramisco  
Jean-Pierre and Philippe Grisard - Persan, Etraire de l'Adui  
Walter Massa - reviver of Timorasso and leader of a new wave of winemakers in South East Piemonte 
Jose Luis Mateo Bastardo, Caíño Redondo, Caiño longo, Zamarrica, Brancellao, Sousón, Arauxa,

Jose Luis Mateo
Dona Blanca and Monstruosa de Monterrei in Galicia;
Heinrich Mayr for nurturing the white heirloom variety Blaterie at his Nusserhof property near Bolzano, Alto Adige  
Robert & Bernard Plageoles, 7 types of Mauzac, Ondenc, Prunelart, Verdanel etc.  
Domenico Pedrini and Gianni Chiste' of Azienda Agricola Pravis, Lasino (near Trento), Negrara and Gropello di Revo back from increasing obscurity in the Trentino area.  
The Rasse family (Rene and his sons Georges and Denis) for maintaining the idiosyncratic St. Jeannet appelation (near Nice) when almost all other vignerons (there were 70 in the 1950s) have sold their land to developers. It is in this case the Terroir if not the varieties which were endangered although some rare Braquet is grown together with Mourvèdre, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Grenache, Rolle, Ugni Blanc, Chardonnay, Muscat and Grenache Noir and the bizarre and ancient method of aging the reds in 'Bonbonnieres' before putting the wine in oak barrels.

The smaller surviving growers include Mimi Lorenzato, Roger Barrière and Lazare Giambi. Agricola San Felice - Pugnitello  
Luigia Zucchi - Nibio the regeneration of the ancient grape variety, Nibiò, which once held position as Monferrato's noblest and highest value. 200 years of neglect nearly resulted in its extinction, but producer Luigia Zucchi has fronted the campaign for its rebirth. There are no doubt many more and we will add to the list, but this is a start and suggestions will be gratefully received.

Thursday 1 June 2017


                                                         Sir John Soane - Pasticcio

Our occasional series of mixed-bag bottles has gone under the names of Valderi-Valdera, Pot-Pourri, Gemischter Salat and Salmagundi. Now Pasticcio - a good old musical term for an opera cobbled together from numbers taken from works by the same or diverse composers.

Pasticcio di Rigatoni
'Pasticcio' was first used in the 16th century for a meat and pasta pie and is still used for that by the Greeks ('Pastisio') by the way.

Today's Pasticcio consists of the following wines we have enjoyed in recent weeks and months. Some have been mentioned already in this blog but not tasted.

the elegant Buscicchio Pietrafesa couple of Tenuta Le Querce, Barile, Basilicata Italy and Primrose Hill, London UK giving a tasting of their wines at the Princess of Wales pub, Chalcot Road, London

We have written about how this almost extinct variety was revived by Le Querce but until this convenient tasting we hadn't actually tasted the wine made from this grape. The impression was very positive indeed. Generous, fruity with its own personality. one to join the Slotovino Hall of fame (we must revive that auspicious academy!). This wine has legs in more sense than one. Complimenti!

Staying in Italy, we found this delicious 11.5% inexpensive blend of Ansonica 'con altri vitigni autoctoni.' They guard this information closely. This is sometimes because the local varieties are not permitted but in the case of this prominent producer it is more likely chosen from the Sicilian varities included in ther other whites such as Cattaratto, Grillo and/or Zibibbo. We're not quite sure why but this excellent value wine is only available in Italy according to Winesearcher.

For this no less delicious Biancolella, you only have to go to L'Antico in Kings Road, London where Franco will fetch it for you if you ask nicely.


We found this 100% Bellone at Enoteca Costantino in Roma, but you can get something like it from Swig. What they sell doesn't state the grape Bellone on the label but we are assured that's what it is. Frascati and Castelli Romani grapes can include a maximum of 10% and 30% respectively of local varieties in addition the various Malvasias and Trebbianos permitted in the DOCs. Bellone is one of these 'Altre uve bianche locali' which is why our bottle only mentions Lazio IGT. Ian D'Agata has a very high  opinion of Bellone calling it 'an outstanding grape variety, one of the best in Italy today.' We agree on the strength of this example from Marco Carpineti of Cori - "Capolemole".

We were charmed to discover the sparkling reds of the Penisola Sorrentina a while back. Now we have tasted this Piedirosso/SciascinosoAglianico rosso frizzante naturale we have ordered another couple of bottles; the ultimate endorsement.

founder francisco Napoleao
On to Portugal and two wines from the Vinho Verde appelation. We took advantage of an offer  for free shipping from the excellent Lisbon merchant Napoleao and bought some of their more resaonable low alcohol Vino Verdes.

Vinhao is the grape of red Vino Verde. Not all Vinhao is delicious. This one is.

Vinho Verde branco can have all sorts of grapes in it; Trajadura, Loueiro, Azal. Avesso, Arinto de Bucelas (aka. Pederna) and Alvarinho but the first two are very typical. Not all white Vinho Verdes are good but this one (Alvarinho + Trajadura) stood out, especially at only €7.99.

East now to Hungary. This Kiralyleanyka was part of our Hungarian haul from the Hungaricum shop at Budapest Airport. Despite our disappointment with Kiralyleanyka under 13% tasting neutral, this one - Bolyki - was nicely aromatic and characteristic at 12.5%. It quite restored our high opinion of this grape.

Next door in Romania (Bucharest Airport Duty Free) we had found this bottle of white wine from a variety called Sarba. It had stood in our cupboard since October 2015 so we were apprehensive as to its state but there was no need to worry. Many native white Romanian varieties (Mustoasa Maderat, Busuioaca de Bohotin) have an inclination towards sweetness as does Sarba. It is a hybrid from Grasevina (Welschriesling/Riesling Italico) and an unnamed pollinator. Maybe this sweetness helps it survive poor storage? Memorable.

Next the only French area - the Commune des Riceys - to boast three appellations; Champagne, Cotaux Champenois and Rose des Riceys. Ricey is also the southernmost appellation of the Champagne area bordering on Bourgogne. Rose des Riceys is made from Pinot Noir and is never sparkling. If still wines from Champagne are expensive (this one was) it may be that with every bottle, two bottles of Champagne are sacrificed since the wine would have been a component of two bottles of (sparkling) Champagne As Tom Stevenson says, the wines like this are 'quaint' and 'a much lesser beast that those of Burgundy.' Nevertheless it was a rarity and certainly pleasant to drink.

The Negrette we bought around the corner from Chambers Street wines at Frankly Wines on W. Broadway was fantastic. What a great grape Negrette is and why cut it with Syrah? It just makes it less Negrette-ish. Is there some reason it's so difficult to find Negrette in purezza? Something's afoot. Why does this lovely bottle need such an apologetic label?

This Pinot Gris/Pinot Blanc blend from the Netherlands was a huge hit at a dinner with what can only be described as some wine connoisseurs present. We scratched our heads for something they might never had had before and Dutch wine was the answer. Excellent as well as obscure.

On to the New World, except Hunter Vally Semillon is a classic and as Jancis Robinson says 'Australia's gift to the world.' As readers of this blog know, we certainly agree with her and perhaps not co-incidentally, although from the Barossa Valley, we found this upscale bottle in Will Lander's Portland restaurant. Like HV Semillon, this was low in alcohol, 11.2%. Quite wonderful.

Our final ingredient in this Pasticcio is something completely different, our Norton from Missouri. In case you haven't been following us on this, we had two types of Norton, this and the reserve from Stone Hill Winery of Hermann MO. delivered to a friend in New York City to await our visit there in March 2017. This was the only way we could get our hands on this interesting so-called US native variety given the complicated rules for shipping and even purchasing wine in the USA.

Norton is regarded as the only old American hybrid not to show any signs of foxyness. A DNA study has shown it to have Vinifera ancestry together with Vitis Aestivalis. Enfarine Noir has been suggested as the Vinifera component.

Whatever the real story, Norton on this evidence is a variety worth cultivating. It is said to be vigorous and resistant to mildew. We think old hybrids generally are outdated but not Norton!