The Whites

Auxerrois. Quite commonly found in Alsace and other parts of France (where it is mostly blended with Pinot Blanc), Germany, Luxemburg and even Belgium. The bottle that impressed me however was by Hartenberg Estates of Stellenbosch, South Africa.

Encruzado A really wonderful and noble grape from Dao. The Quinta Dos Roques version is quite widely available from from Handford’s, Harrods and on-line merchants. Goodness know why Chardonnay rules the world while Encruzado remains in obsurity.

Furmint. Here’s an example of a pleasurable overturning of prejudice. In the socialist era, dry Furmint (the principle grape of Tokaji) was encountered in Hungary, in a totally unremarkable form. Modern examples show what the grape is capable of. Surprisingly alcohol levels are invariably high (typically 14%). Good examples by Disznoko and Oremus are not hard to find.

Goldriesling. I even read somewhere that this was a synonym for Emerald Riesling but that is wrong. It is a hybrid, though an old one (c.1880). I always buy a bottle of Meissen Goldriesling when I’m in Leipzig. Meissen is Germany’s most northerly wine area and this seems to suit the variety well. It’s very clean and fine.

Pecorino. The example came from Handford’s. I have heard it say by those with more knowledge of the Abruzzi than me (i.e. almost everyone) that there is any number of examples of uninspiring Pecorino but as they say ay Green and Blue, a little care and attention in the vineyard can go a very long way in the glass. The wine was Gran Sasso, Tere di Cieti. Handford’s may not stock it anymore but others do. The wine is pale and citrussy; most refreshing. Could Chieti be the only Italian city without any redeeming feature? We only passed through it but couldn’t find the nice bit.

Loin de l'oeil and Mauzac. This is Gaillac Blanc Perlé, created in 1957 at the Cave de Labastide de Levis, sometimes available from Nicolas. Look for the rather lurid but sympa green label. The wine is petillant and delicious. Not to be confused with the German Perle, a hybrid crossing of Gewurtstraminer and Muller-Thurgau.

Torbato. I wish I could say I discovered this on one of my trips to the Teatro Lirico di Cagliari to see some unfeasibly good performance of an obscure Russian opera (rumoured to be funded by shady organisations) but in fact the find was made in a modest but excellent neighbourhood Sardinian restaurant on the Kentish Town/Tufnell Park borders in London. A beautifully balanced wine with what was for me a kind of instant recognition although I had never tasted it before and Torbato is not a synonym for Chardonnay as for example, the Austrian name Morillon unfortunately is.

Verduzzo. In Venice, you can buy wines from local grape varieties ‘sfuso’ (on draft from barrels or demijohns). These include such rarities as Raboso, Prosecco Spento, Ancelotta (see below) and Verduzzo. The version in these enoteche is dry, light and delicious. In bottle you will frequently find a sweet incarnation which is regarded as more interesting – not by me!

Welschriesling (Riesling Italico). For me this was an acquired taste, but acquire it I did thanks to a sparkling version from the stylish Café Englander in Vienna. This ‘Sekt’ is made exclusively for them. I bought another sparkling version by Szigeti at the airport but this was not quite as good. Fine versions of non-sparkling Welschriesling are by Pongratz etc. also to be found at Vienna/Schwechat airport where they have an exemplary wine shop cum wine bar selling a variety of Austrian wines difficult to match in town.

Xarel-lo. Bone-dry wine usually part of the Cava blend. Again, a lowly grape which is capable of making a life-enhancing wine in the right hands. I discovered this at the Cigala Spanish Restaurant in Lambs Conduit St., London WC1. I’m not sure whose version they had on their wine list but Albet I Noya is the prominent producer and the label looks familiar. Perfect when you crave a dry white wine.