SITT Spring Tasting 2025

 

This was a good SITT tasting if rare and obscure grape varieties were what you were after. Strangely enough, we were.

Here's the list: 

Breslava

Dunaj

Telti-Kuruk

Albarin

Criolla Blanca

Moscatel Rosa

Jampal

 

  

According to the notice, Breslava (the historical name of Bratislava by the way) is a Slovakian cross between Chasselas Rose, Gewurtztraminer and something called Santa Maria d'Alcantara (a white berried variety of unknown origen. 'Wine Grapes' ).

It is a white grape making wine evoking Mango, Lychee and Grapefruit.

 

Dunaj we have come across before.

Colour Red. The notice attests to its Cherry and Dark Chocolate falvours. It is another Slovakian cross. This time between Muscat Bouschet, Blaufraenkisch and St. Laurent. Muscat Bouschet was obtained in 1857 by Pierre Bouschet by crossing Muscat Fleur d'Oranger with Petit Bouschet.

 

As if two new discoveries side-by-side wasn't enough, nearby we came across our favourite Ukranian wine, Shabo's Telti-Kuruk Reserve. A world class wine. A major discovery, one we have been trying to get our hands on by all means. 

Not much is known about Telti-Kuruk. It doesn't appear in 'Wine Grapes.' The name is apparently Turkish although the grape is said by one source to be Armenian and everyone else to be a native Ukranian variety. Pierre Galet doesn't mention Armenia but writes that it is grown in Moldova as well as Ukraine in the regions of Odesa (where Shabo is situated) and Kherson. He states that Telti-Kuruk is a table grape and is used for sparkling wine - not something we had heard of previously.

 

Adam Lever, South West Area Manager of Novel wines was the representative. Thanks to him and his colleagues we had been able to buy this wine from their shop in Bristol back in February this year. You could too!

Next was Albarin, not Albarino. Scope for confusion doesn't stop there. Albarin has also been confused with Albillo, Elbling and Gouais Blanc in that all three have the synonym Blanco Verdin, and Savagnin Blanc due to mis-labelling or mis-identification in Mision Biologica de Galicia's collection.

Albillo is floral and spicy. A discovery indeed.

Matias Morcos's 'Naranja' is not made with Orangetraube. It is an Orange Wine made with Moscatel Rosa. This is a great variety, perhaps not that rare but one that should be more familiar.

 

Criolla Blanca. Could it be one of the many red Criollas (there are about 50 of them) vinified white or is this a rare white version? It is not mentioned in 'Wine Grapes' and is unknown to Galet.More research is required. Meanwhile we just had to reproduce the text on the back label if you can't read it in the photo above:

"Some things from the past should be cherished forever,some re-breathed and re-invented. Light and time trapped between old walls,. The courtyards, the verandas, our Grandmothers; beauty in tiny detail. The sounds that declare the silence. Peace. Those who walked before us at a calmer pace, bequeathed to us another way of living. La Cayetans celebrates the sun's heritageon the vines, and together we continue to write the history of the land." 

Now we know. 

This gentleman is Kevin Hart, Director of 79 North Road Ltd. He is the kindest man in the wine business. He's a rare connoisseur too. He is the only person in the UK to stock Manz's Dona Fatima Jampal. If that is not sufficient he sent us a bottle for a tasting free of charge! We are eternally grateful not just for the absence of invoice but for championing this ultra-rare variety.

Manz Wines. Dona Fatima. Jampal. Lisboa 2022. 13%

Former Brazilian soccer player André Manz bought an abandoned vineyard in Cheleiros, Portugal to make wine for himself and his friends. A commercial project was far from his ambitions at the time. On the first visit to the vineyard with an oenologist and agronomist, 200 vines of a variety were discovered which nobody was able to identify… with the help of technicians from the Instituto da Vinha e do Vinho (Vine and Wine Institute) the variety’s name was identified: Jampal.

“It is an autochthonous Portuguese variety, characteristic here in the region, but it was abandoned because it was not profitable… very sensitive, it requires a more expensive pruning and produces little quantity… we might as well have just bet on the reds and forget about it” but he persisted and produced the only monovarietal bottling of so far. There were 34 ha. in Portugal in 2016.

 

 

The 2024 Vineyard and Winery show

 

 

 

Yes, it was the truly wonderful Vineyard and Winery Show once again in November last year at the Kent Showground near Maidstone, UK.

 

 

As ever there were several different shows under the one roof. First off we were amazed and delighted to find 'PIWI including new varieties from Italy.' These were from our friends at the Vivai Cooperativi Rauscedo - the worls largest and possibly greatest vine nursery.

 

Hello Soreli and Fleurtai! Our choice for planting. See this Blog. No grapes yet but we live in hope. Delcious wines. Soreli is making headway all over including the most unexpected places (the urban vineyard at Bercy, Paris). Fleurtai and Soreli have the same parents of which one is (Tocai) Friulano.

 

Then there was Volturnis (red from Pinot Noir).

 

Kersus, White from Pinot Blanc.

 

Iskra. White, also from Pinot Blanc.

And Pinot Kors. Red from Pinot Noir.

 

 On a nearby table the first evidence of the UK Divico craze. News about this has been coming drip by drip but Divico has now become a big 'thing' here on evidence found at the show. It tastes very good indeed. We had planted 6 Divico vines a few years ago having acquired them at great expense from Switzerland. They all promptly died. Now we have ordered 25 Divico vines to fill gaps in the vineyard. We'll report in a few years time.

 

Further on, yet more Divico.

Visitors are not only interested in resistant and rare grape varieties strange to say. There are always a myriad of products on show from giant vineyard machinery to chemical products to trellising equipment, vineyard contractors and much more.

Back to our particular interest, from the Pfalz, two Sauvignacs. Sauvignac also seems to be a 'thing.' Even the Wine Society ahd a Sauvignac from Chateau Thieuly, Bordeaux. the Bordelais have been experimenting with varieties that can deal with the new climactic conditions brought about by climate change.

The Vineyard and Winery show is a great place to discover these new trends. Sauvignac is a crossing of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and a resistant partner obtained by the great Swiss private grape breeder Valentin Blattner.

 Next, the very promising PIWI variety Rinot. We have enjoyed this previously thanks to Rebschule Freytag who once again was present at the show.

 

The Pfalz seems to be a hotspot for PIWI wines. Perhaps it is no coincidence that Rebschule Freytag is a Pfalz institution, Here was a Cabernet Blanc, also a Blattner variety. Our jury is out on Cabernet Blanc. We have tasted some that were better than others but nothing to suggest an 'Aha moment.'

  

Talking about Cabernet Blanc, we note that they have not been obliged to change the name to Cabaret Blanc.

 A Cabernet Noir from Kent. No Cabarets there.

  

We don't do Chardonnay much but here was another Crouch Valley 13 - percenter. Essex was only recently discovered as the leading UK wine-growing area. It is surprising it took so long. It just reinforces the dictum that 75% of UK vineyards are probably in the wrong place. People used to plant vines at the properties they already owned, To be sure studies of soil and aspect were made but without the centuries of winegrowing experience in established countries, we are still discovering where our best terroirs lie.

 

  

 

Crows Lane Estate's 'Trouble every day' Black Book Pinot Noir is another 13% Essex wine. The grapes are vinified at the London urban winery in Battersea.

 

There were a couple of 'Structured tastings', One by Matthew Jukes who is a show institution and another by an Australian.  

The Jukes crowd heard Matthew wax exceeding rapturous about an English Gewuerztraminer among others.