Monday 24 June 2024

Delicieux

 


Domaine La Martinelle, Vaucluse


Blend of 65% Clairette Blanche and Rose, 25% Grenache Blanc and Gris supplemented with a little Picardan and Rolle, from 15-year-old vines grown organically, and planted on clay-limestone soils, on South-East facing terraces, mid-slope. Manual harvest on the 2nd and 6th of September. Direct pressing, indigenous yeasts, aging half in stainless steel vats and half in barrels that have seen several wines. Blending in March, and bottled at the Estate mid-April 2023 after very light filtration, low sulphur.

We drank this at the Cafe de la Gare in Bonnieux. Fantastic aromatic wine. Really outstanding.

Domaine La Martinelle seems to be a bit of a secret, a dark horse with only two retailers mentioned in Winesearcher, both French. And those for their Cotes du Rhone Village.

That Cotes du Rhone or rather Cotes du Ventoux hasn't escaped Jancis Robinson however:

Mid ruby. Warm and rich and thoroughly welcoming – really quite a lot of complexity for the money. The sort of wine that makes you wonder whether other French wines, especially the more expensive ones, shouldn’t just pack up now... Very sweet finish but no excess heat or tannins. Enough juice, yet there is enough structure too. Spicy finish. 17.


Francisi, an update.

12 years ago we blogged about an obscure grape called Francisi.

Today we can give a little update thanks to 'Xtra Wine.' To all who have waited so patiently, thanks!

Name of vine used by Etna winemakers who called it U'Francisi, which is not a name found in ampelographic books and does not always correspond to vines that arrived in Italy from France. A century ago there were at least forty native varieties present.


The amazing story of Gyulboor Davidova. (1892 - 1983) and winegrowing in Dagestan

Gyulboor Davidova

With the attacks on churches and a synagogue in Derbent, Dagestan we took a look at this place and were amazed to find the following story told of one of its citizens in the last century,

With thanks to Wikipedia;

Gyulboor Davidova was born on March 8th 1892, in the Mountain Jewish village of Khoshmenzil, Dagestan Oblast, Russian Empire, in a peasant family. Since childhood, she worked in the fields and helped her parents. After the death of her husband, she was left with two little children.

In 1928, when the collective farm “New Life” was formed in the village, Gyulboor Davydova was not accepted into it, believing that women could not work on an equal basis with men. Then she gathered 14 widowed farmworkers and organized a women's collective farm, to which women named it “Red Farmwoman”, and Gyulboor Davydova was elected chairwoman. The women's collective farm completed the spring sowing, prepared the ground for melon crops, and their yield turned out to be higher than in the men's agricultural farm. Subsequently, both of these collective farms merged into one large farm.

Two of Davydova's sons, David and Ruvin, died in the Great Patriotic War.

On July 27, 1949, for obtaining high grape yields in 1948, the title of Hero of Socialist Labor was awarded to her by the decree of Presidium of the Supreme Soviet, the highest body of state authority in the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics (USSR). Gyulboor Davydova was only Mountain Jewish woman who was awarded such a high award.

Gyulboor Davydova was repeatedly elected as a deputy of the Presidium of the Supreme Council of the Dagestan Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic, as well as a deputy of the local Council of People's Deputies.

Davydova died on April 9, 1983, and was buried at the Jewish cemetery in Derbent.

Wines in Dagestan today

From the website of  the Derbent Wine company;

Derbent is the oldest city in Russia.

and

The terroir of the Derbent region is ideal for growing quality grapes. The peculiarities of our landscape, soil and climate have created a powerful potential for growing grape varieties unique in their taste: both classic Chardonnay, Sauvignon, Riesling, and unique autochthons - Gulabi, Dokur, Djunga, Latsuchere, Narma, Girma, which we plan to revive.

Already some of their wines are made from obscure grape varieties including

Agustine (a table grape), Bianca, Citron Magaracha, Firstborn of Magarach, Moldova, Pervenets and Perborn.

Interesting that Derbent is in South Caucusus and is on the Caspian Sea whereas what we know of Russian wine is mainly from the Black Sea and North Caucasus.

When the terrible war in Ukraine is finally over and Russia is no longer a pariah state, it would be very interesting to research the wines of South Caucasus. They have been going for thousands of years so will outlive the present situation.


Friday 7 June 2024

De-licious. Could this Oastbrook Pinot Meunier be the best English white wine yet?

 




Pinot Meunier. A most interesting red grape variety we're sure you will agree, so buying this bottle we thought we were getting a red wine such was our haste to get it.

We only found out it was a white wine on opening. Not surprising really given that the vast majority of P.M. goes into sparkling wine in this country.







We've enjoyed an English Pinot Meunier vinificato in bianco previously. The equally de-licious one from Simpsons. We hope UK sparkling wine producers will make more still white wines from this grape and it wouldn't hurt to make some reds from it as well surely?

PS. The Oastbrook vineyard (East Sussex) was only planted in 2018 by America and Nick Brewer, a Brazilian/English couple with no previous winegrowing experience. They also make monovarietal Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir as well as sparkling wine.