This is a collection of wines from grape varieties made only by one producer. These are the rarest of the rare. We can't be absolutely sure of their uniqueness but we are trying to honour those who have either nursed an almost extinct known variety back to life or perhaps stumbled on an unknown one in their vineyard and decided to make a go of it.
In particular there are five 'Historische Rebsorten' re-discovered by the great grape archeologist, Andreas Jung and propagated and vinified by the visionary grape breeder Ulrich Martin.
There are no doubt others who make wine from a unique grape variety. We will try to add them to this short list.
White
Curii uvas y vinos. Trepadell
No mention in Wine Grapes or Galet. The internet tells us that Trepadell or Trapadell is a synonym for Forcallat Blanca. Wine grapes tells us that Forcallat Blanca is a synonym for Airen, one of the most planted varieties in Spain. Indeed there are 284,623 ha. of Airen comprising 26% of the national vineyard. Since Airen is frequently planted as low-density bushvines, it may be grown on more land than any other variety in the world!
So why include it here? Our Trepadell comes from Curii uvas y vinos situated in the Marina Alta region of the autonomous community of Valencia and returning to the Forcallat Blanca entry in Wine Grapes, we read that 'The name Forcallat Blanca...is also the name of a distinct variety from Valencia that is no longer cultivated commercially but has a unique DNA which means that it is not a white mutation of Forcallat Tinta from Castilla-La-Mancha. It is nevertheless authorised in Vino-de-la-Tierra Murcia in South-East Spain.'
There may be others who used Trepadell. Javi (also Valencia) blends it variously with something called Tortosi (Tortozon?), Malvasia, Merseguera and Verdil.
Curii uvas y vinos's Trepadell is blended with 20% Merseguera. Only 316 bottles were made.
Curii is the property of Alberto Redrado and Violeta Gutiérrez de la Vega. Alberto is a former Mejor Sommelier of Spain and Violeta is an enology graduate of the University of Bordeaux and has worked in Pauillac and Sauternes.
No mention in Wine Grapes or Galet. The internet tells us that Trepadell or Trapadell is a synonym for Forcallat Blanca. Wine grapes tells us that Forcallat Blanca is a synonym for Airen, one of the most planted varieties in Spain. Indeed there are 284,623 ha. of Airen comprising 26% of the national vineyard. Since Airen is frequently planted as low-density bushvines, it may be grown on more land than any other variety in the world!
So why include it here? Our Trepadell comes from Curii uvas y vinos situated in the Marina Alta region of the autonomous community of Valencia and returning to the Forcallat Blanca entry in Wine Grapes, we read that 'The name Forcallat Blanca...is also the name of a distinct variety from Valencia that is no longer cultivated commercially but has a unique DNA which means that it is not a white mutation of Forcallat Tinta from Castilla-La-Mancha. It is nevertheless authorised in Vino-de-la-Tierra Murcia in South-East Spain.'
There may be others who used Trepadell. Javi (also Valencia) blends it variously with something called Tortosi (Tortozon?), Malvasia, Merseguera and Verdil.
Curii uvas y vinos's Trepadell is blended with 20% Merseguera. Only 316 bottles were made.
Curii is the property of Alberto Redrado and Violeta Gutiérrez de la Vega. Alberto is a former Mejor Sommelier of Spain and Violeta is an enology graduate of the University of Bordeaux and has worked in Pauillac and Sauternes.
Dasca Vives Vinyater
All Galet can say about Vinyater is that it has a synonym, Vinyate, that it is a Spanish white grape with 13 ha. in 2009 and is authrised in 'Catalogne.'
In 2012 a series of Vinyater strains was taken from the vineyard of the Les Espelmes estate in Puigpelat planted between 1948 and 1952 with a view to including Vinyater in the Tarragona D.O.
There is at least one other producer working with Vinyater, Bodegas Partida Creus who say that there are only 9 ha. left now. So rather than leave this interesting variety out we award Partida Creus and Dasca Vives together with Ramon Gavarró of Les Espelmes credit for saving the grape.
You may also find Vinyater named 'Raïm vinyater' but don't worry, raïm is just the word for grape in Catalonian.
Domaine le Verdus Roussellou
Now we are in real Terra Incognita with Roussellou. No mention in Wine Grapes or Galet although the latter has 'Rousselon Blanc = Saint Pierre dore dans l'Aveyron.' Indeed, Le Verdus is in St. Come (venue for the Rencontres des cepages modestes by the way) in the Aveyron. Checking Galet's entry for St, Pierre dore, we find Rousselou (with one 'l') listed as a synonym in the Aveyron.
St. Pierre dore counted 125 ha. in 1958, 2 ha. in 1988 and 0.39 ha. in 2011 in L'Allier (Vichy) - nowhere near L'Aveyron. Galet adds ominously 'Ce cepage est en voie de disparition.' So Philippe Rousseau of Domaine le Verdus may well be the only producer these days. The story is that a winemerchant from Rodez, Alain Falguières makes wine from a property at Salles-la-Source where he is also re-introducing old grape varieties. Apparently the Aveyron used to be one of the areas of France with the greatest number of local varieties such as Cepage St. Come and Prunelard de Nauviale.
In 2015 Philippe Rousseau of Le Verdus was persuaded by Falguières to plant 1000 vines of Roussellou and here is the result.
Now we are in real Terra Incognita with Roussellou. No mention in Wine Grapes or Galet although the latter has 'Rousselon Blanc = Saint Pierre dore dans l'Aveyron.' Indeed, Le Verdus is in St. Come (venue for the Rencontres des cepages modestes by the way) in the Aveyron. Checking Galet's entry for St, Pierre dore, we find Rousselou (with one 'l') listed as a synonym in the Aveyron.
St. Pierre dore counted 125 ha. in 1958, 2 ha. in 1988 and 0.39 ha. in 2011 in L'Allier (Vichy) - nowhere near L'Aveyron. Galet adds ominously 'Ce cepage est en voie de disparition.' So Philippe Rousseau of Domaine le Verdus may well be the only producer these days. The story is that a winemerchant from Rodez, Alain Falguières makes wine from a property at Salles-la-Source where he is also re-introducing old grape varieties. Apparently the Aveyron used to be one of the areas of France with the greatest number of local varieties such as Cepage St. Come and Prunelard de Nauviale.
In 2015 Philippe Rousseau of Le Verdus was persuaded by Falguières to plant 1000 vines of Roussellou and here is the result.
Chateau La Colombiere Bouysselet
Bouyssales is mentioned in Wine Grapes (as well as in Galet) but never fear; this is a red grape - a synonym for Cot (Malbec). Bouysselet has its own entry in Galet who says it is a white grape and gives Prunelard blanc as a synonym in Fronton.
There appears to be 3.5 ha. of Bouysselet in existance (2018). Diane and Phlippe Cauvin are the owners and winemakers of Chateau La Colombiere in Fronton indeed.
The story is the Cauvins were researching the history of winegrowing in Fronton and came across a grape they hadn't heard of before - Bouysselet. They discovered that a local nursery had kept this vine alive for research purposes as well as a little winemaking they had it propagated and bought it back to life in their vineyard.
They have made wine from this variety in an attempt to 'stop taste banalization.' (Great expression!).
Turning to D'Agata (of course), we learn that Orpicchio was grown in Toscana in the mid-19th century. The last few vines were found in the vineyard of Fattoria del Petrolo. They were reproduced by the experimantal station of the Unita per Ricerca of Arezzo.
D'Agata writes that there were no monovarietal wines currently being produced to the best of his knowledge (around 2014).
The Donne Fittipaldi wine-maker Emiliano Falsini explains, “Orpicchio is a white-grape native vine, cultivated in the area of Arezzo in the past, and traces of it had gone lost over the years. Nowadays, just 2 hectares of it are cultivated and Lady F. 2015 is the first large-scale production of monovarietal Orpicchio.
The donne of Donne Fittipaldi are Maria Fittipaldi Menarini and her four daughters Carlotta, Giulia, Serena and Valentina who make up the team in Bolgheri producing about 80 thousand bottles of four labels – Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Doc, Biano Igt Toscana, Malaroja Igt Toscana (100% Malbec) and our Lady F. Igt Toscana (100% Orpicchio).
Impressive.
We know that 'Sheep,' Coda di Pecora is unique because the producer, Cesare Avenio told us so. We met him and his family at Autochtona 2019, Bolzano.
'Wine Grapes' says it is always blended with other local varieties. D'Agata relegates it to the 'Little Known and Traditional Grape Varieties' section and says it 'is used mainly as a blender...on its own it's too meager, neutral, and flat.' We're sure Sr. Avenio's effort is different.
Azienda Agricola Obiz. Soreli
Soreli is a creation of the Vivai Cooperativo Rauscedo, the world's largest vine nursery. They are in the process of producing resistant versions of standard varieties. Soreli (the word for Sun in Friulian dialect -ironic as we shall see) comes from Tocai Friulano or Friulano. A.A. Obiz are the only people to have produced wine from Soreli so far and as far as we know. Francesco Visintin ('Tutore di vini') was extremely friendly and agreed to send us two sample bottles ('campioni'), one from 2018 and one from 2019. We tasted the 2018 and it was outstandingly delicious with plenty of character and personality.
This was all to the good as we had planted 500 Soreli vines ourselves in our little Thames Valley plot. Sadly, all perished because of the record amont of sun and dryness over the spring this year. We will re-plant next year in the hope that isolation will not prevent us from watering them in case there is another record drought.
Bouyssales is mentioned in Wine Grapes (as well as in Galet) but never fear; this is a red grape - a synonym for Cot (Malbec). Bouysselet has its own entry in Galet who says it is a white grape and gives Prunelard blanc as a synonym in Fronton.
There appears to be 3.5 ha. of Bouysselet in existance (2018). Diane and Phlippe Cauvin are the owners and winemakers of Chateau La Colombiere in Fronton indeed.
The story is the Cauvins were researching the history of winegrowing in Fronton and came across a grape they hadn't heard of before - Bouysselet. They discovered that a local nursery had kept this vine alive for research purposes as well as a little winemaking they had it propagated and bought it back to life in their vineyard.
They have made wine from this variety in an attempt to 'stop taste banalization.' (Great expression!).
Donne Fittipaldi Orpicchio
Turning to D'Agata (of course), we learn that Orpicchio was grown in Toscana in the mid-19th century. The last few vines were found in the vineyard of Fattoria del Petrolo. They were reproduced by the experimantal station of the Unita per Ricerca of Arezzo.
D'Agata writes that there were no monovarietal wines currently being produced to the best of his knowledge (around 2014).
The Donne Fittipaldi wine-maker Emiliano Falsini explains, “Orpicchio is a white-grape native vine, cultivated in the area of Arezzo in the past, and traces of it had gone lost over the years. Nowadays, just 2 hectares of it are cultivated and Lady F. 2015 is the first large-scale production of monovarietal Orpicchio.
The donne of Donne Fittipaldi are Maria Fittipaldi Menarini and her four daughters Carlotta, Giulia, Serena and Valentina who make up the team in Bolgheri producing about 80 thousand bottles of four labels – Bolgheri Rosso Superiore Doc, Biano Igt Toscana, Malaroja Igt Toscana (100% Malbec) and our Lady F. Igt Toscana (100% Orpicchio).
Impressive.
 |
| Cesare Avenio |
Il verro. Coda di Pecora
We know that 'Sheep,' Coda di Pecora is unique because the producer, Cesare Avenio told us so. We met him and his family at Autochtona 2019, Bolzano.
'Wine Grapes' says it is always blended with other local varieties. D'Agata relegates it to the 'Little Known and Traditional Grape Varieties' section and says it 'is used mainly as a blender...on its own it's too meager, neutral, and flat.' We're sure Sr. Avenio's effort is different.
Azienda Agricola Obiz. Soreli
Soreli is a creation of the Vivai Cooperativo Rauscedo, the world's largest vine nursery. They are in the process of producing resistant versions of standard varieties. Soreli (the word for Sun in Friulian dialect -ironic as we shall see) comes from Tocai Friulano or Friulano. A.A. Obiz are the only people to have produced wine from Soreli so far and as far as we know. Francesco Visintin ('Tutore di vini') was extremely friendly and agreed to send us two sample bottles ('campioni'), one from 2018 and one from 2019. We tasted the 2018 and it was outstandingly delicious with plenty of character and personality.
This was all to the good as we had planted 500 Soreli vines ourselves in our little Thames Valley plot. Sadly, all perished because of the record amont of sun and dryness over the spring this year. We will re-plant next year in the hope that isolation will not prevent us from watering them in case there is another record drought.
Quinta de Muradella. Monstruosa de Monterrei
Wine Grapes: Extremely rare, recuperated Galician capable of producing light, fresh aromatic whites.
The rescuer was Jose Luis Mateo of Quinta de Muradella, Monterrei.
Robert Parker's team write:
Only in its second vintage and bottled separately after the initial 2012 from the 790 plants he has, the 2015 Monstuosa de Monterrei is a true rarity, from an obscure grape with high acidity....It was traditionlly used in blends with Dona Blanca to give them acidity; it was planted in all the old vineyards in a proportion 2% to 3%. Lip-smacking. There were 500 litres of this that filled some 600 bottles. It was bottled in 2017.
Wine Grapes: Extremely rare, recuperated Galician capable of producing light, fresh aromatic whites.
The rescuer was Jose Luis Mateo of Quinta de Muradella, Monterrei.
Robert Parker's team write:
Only in its second vintage and bottled separately after the initial 2012 from the 790 plants he has, the 2015 Monstuosa de Monterrei is a true rarity, from an obscure grape with high acidity....It was traditionlly used in blends with Dona Blanca to give them acidity; it was planted in all the old vineyards in a proportion 2% to 3%. Lip-smacking. There were 500 litres of this that filled some 600 bottles. It was bottled in 2017.
Rebschule Martin. Grünfränkisch
NB. The
ghastly monniker 'Leibfraumilch' with its inappropriate connotation of
blue nuns is of course a total misnomer. Its off-puttingly sexist
innuendo has justly been consigned to the dustbin. The original name was
'Liebfrauenmilch' and there were no nuns, blue or otherwise. The
Liebfrauenmilch referred to the vineyard of the Liebfrauenkirche (Church
of our Lady) in Worms. The term Liebfraumilch began to be used in the
18th century mostly for exported wine. That didn't turn out too well.
Riesling has struggled to overcome the crass marketing gimmick and taste of the semi-sweet
beverage foisted on a less discriminating world last century.
❞Wein der Liebfrauenmilch❝
An
einer 300 Jahre alten Sortenbeschreibung lässt sich ableiten, dass
nicht Riesling, sondern sehr wahrscheinlich Grünfränkisch die
eigentliche Rebsorte der weltbekannten Liebfrauenmilch war. Bereits im
16. Jahrhundert wurde der Grünfränkisch für die Südpfalz erwähnt.
Die Historie dieser wertvollen Rebsorte geht zurück in die Antike und
fand über Nordungarn ihre Heimat am Rhein. Bis zur ihrer
Wiederentdeckung in Jahr 2009 galt diese Rebsorte als ausgestorben.
From a 300-year-old variety description we can deduce that very probably Grünfränkisch and not Riesling was the actual variety of grape for the world famous Liebfrauenmilch. Grünfränkisch was already mentioned in the Südpfalz (South Palatinate) in the 16th century.. The history of this worthy grape goes back to antique times and found its home on the Rhine via north Hungary. Until its rediscovery in 2009 it was considered extinct.
From a 300-year-old variety description we can deduce that very probably Grünfränkisch and not Riesling was the actual variety of grape for the world famous Liebfrauenmilch. Grünfränkisch was already mentioned in the Südpfalz (South Palatinate) in the 16th century.. The history of this worthy grape goes back to antique times and found its home on the Rhine via north Hungary. Until its rediscovery in 2009 it was considered extinct.
Wein der Liebfrauenmilch
❞Wein der Liebfrauenmilch❝
An
einer 300 Jahre alten Sortenbeschreibung lässt sich ableiten, dass
nicht Riesling, sondern sehr wahrscheinlich Grünfränkisch die
eigentliche Rebsorte der weltbekannten Liebfrauenmilch war. Bereits im
16. Jahrhundert wurde der Grünfränkisch für die Südpfalz
erwähnt. Die Historie dieser wertvollen Rebsorte geht zurück in die
Antike und fand über Nordungarn ihre Heimat am Rhein. Bis zur ihrer
Wiederentdeckung in Jahr 2009 galt diese Rebsorte als ausgestorben.
Rebschule Martin. Grüner Adelfränkisch
❞Edelsorte im Mittelalter❝
Eine
Ursorte, die schon vor 5.000 Jahren kultiviert wurde, ist mit Traminer
und Süßschwarz verwandt. Seit dem Mittelalter ist diese autochthone
Rebsorte in der Mark Brandenburg dokumentiert. Sie gehörte zum Kernsatz
der altfränkischen Rebsorten, die seit dem 8. Jahrhundert n.Chr.
aus Mähren importiert und in den Mischsätzen Deutschlands heimisch
geworden ist. Ihre Robustheit und die gute Traubenreife, verbunden mit
einem edlen Weinaroma, macht sie für den heimischen Weinanbau sehr
wertvoll. Bis 2007 galt dieses Juwel als ausgestorben.
"Noble Variety from the Middle Ages."
An original variety cultivated already more than 5,000 years ago is related to Traminer and Süßschwarz. The variety has been documented in Brandenburg since the middle ages. It belongs to the core group of ancient grape varieties imported from Moravia since the 8th century AD which as crossings have become native to Germany. Its robustness and good ripening qualities combined with noble aroma makes it very valuable for the native vineyard. Until 2007 this jewel was considered extinct.
"Noble Variety from the Middle Ages."
An original variety cultivated already more than 5,000 years ago is related to Traminer and Süßschwarz. The variety has been documented in Brandenburg since the middle ages. It belongs to the core group of ancient grape varieties imported from Moravia since the 8th century AD which as crossings have become native to Germany. Its robustness and good ripening qualities combined with noble aroma makes it very valuable for the native vineyard. Until 2007 this jewel was considered extinct.
Eine
Ursorte, die schon vor 5.000 Jahren kultiviert wurde, ist mit Traminer
und Süßschwarz verwandt. Seit dem Mittelalter ist diese autochthone
Rebsorte in der Mark Brandenburg dokumentiert. Sie gehörte zum Kernsatz
der altfränkischen Rebsorten, die seit dem 8. Jahrhundert n.Chr.
aus Mähren importiert und in den Mischsätzen Deutschlands heimisch
geworden ist. Ihre Robustheit und die gute Traubenreife, verbunden mit
einem edlen Weinaroma, macht sie für den heimischen Weinanbau sehr
wertvoll. Bis 2007 galt dieses Juwel als ausgestorben.
Eine
Ursorte, die schon vor 5.000 Jahren kultiviert wurde, ist mit Traminer
und Süßschwarz verwandt. Seit dem Mittelalter ist diese autochthone
Rebsorte in der Mark Brandenburg dokumentiert. Sie gehörte zum Kernsatz
der altfränkischen Rebsorten, die seit dem 8. Jahrhundert n.Chr.
aus Mähren importiert und in den Mischsätzen Deutschlands heimisch
geworden ist. Ihre Robustheit und die gute Traubenreife, verbunden mit
einem edlen Weinaroma, macht sie für den heimischen Weinanbau sehr
wertvoll. Bis 2007 galt dieses Juwel als ausgestorben.
Edelsorte im Mittelalter
❞Edelsorte im Mittelalter❝
Eine
Ursorte, die schon vor 5.000 Jahren kultiviert wurde, ist mit Traminer
und Süßschwarz verwandt. Seit dem Mittelalter ist diese autochthone
Rebsorte in der Mark Brandenburg dokumentiert. Sie gehörte zum Kernsatz
der altfränkischen Rebsorten, die seit dem 8. Jahrhundert n.Chr.
aus Mähren importiert und in den Mischsätzen Deutschlands heimisch
geworden ist. Ihre Robustheit und die gute Traubenreife, verbunden mit
einem edlen Weinaroma, macht sie für den heimischen Weinanbau sehr
wertvoll. Bis 2007 galt dieses Juwel als ausgestorben.
Eine
Ursorte, die schon vor 5.000 Jahren kultiviert wurde, ist mit Traminer
und Süßschwarz verwandt. Seit dem Mittelalter ist diese autochthone
Rebsorte in der Mark Brandenburg dokumentiert. Sie gehörte zum Kernsatz
der altfränkischen Rebsorten, die seit dem 8. Jahrhundert n.Chr.
aus Mähren importiert und in den Mischsätzen Deutschlands heimisch
geworden ist. Ihre Robustheit und die gute Traubenreife, verbunden mit
einem edlen Weinaroma, macht sie für den heimischen Weinanbau sehr
wertvoll. Bis 2007 galt dieses Juwel als ausgestorben.
Rebschule Martin. Blauer Muskateller
Rebschule Martin. Gelber Kleinberger❞Ursorte aus Indien❝
Mit
ihrem Ursprung in Indien blicken die Muskatellersorten auf eine über
3000 Jahre alte Geschichte. Verfolgt man die Geschichte alter Urvölker
kommt man nach Spanien und beobachtet wie sie sich von dort aus im
Frühmittelalter ins Piemont, Rhônetal und in die Westschweiz
verbreiteten. Der Blaue Muskateller, der in Deutschland als ausgestorben
galt, kann niemals ein tiefroter Wein werden, denn dafür fehlen die
erforderlichen Farbstoffe in der Beerenhaut. Sie werden aber einen an
Rosenblüten erinnernden, fruchtig frischen, lachsfarbenen Rosé genießen
können, der in den Sommermonaten so manchen lauen Sommerabend elegant
begleitet.
"Original variety from India"
With their origins in India the Muscatelle varieties count a history of over 3,000 years. If you follow the history of the emigrations of primitive peoples you arrive in Spain and observe how they spread from there in the early middle ages to Piemonte. the Rhone Valley and Western Switzerland. The Blaue Muskateller which was thought to be extinct in Germany can never be a deep red wine because the required colour is lacking in the berry skins. Reminiscent of a rose-petal, fruity fresh salmon-pink Rosé, you can enjoy it in summer months as the elegant accompaniment to many warm summer evenings
"Original variety from India"
With their origins in India the Muscatelle varieties count a history of over 3,000 years. If you follow the history of the emigrations of primitive peoples you arrive in Spain and observe how they spread from there in the early middle ages to Piemonte. the Rhone Valley and Western Switzerland. The Blaue Muskateller which was thought to be extinct in Germany can never be a deep red wine because the required colour is lacking in the berry skins. Reminiscent of a rose-petal, fruity fresh salmon-pink Rosé, you can enjoy it in summer months as the elegant accompaniment to many warm summer evenings
Weinanbau in der Kleinen Eiszeit
"Weinanbau in der kleinen Eiszeit."
Weinanbau in der Kleinen Eiszeit
Kleinberger
456
Weinanbau in der Kleinen Eiszeit
❞Weinanbau in der Kleinen Eiszeit❝
Schon vor dem Riesling wurde der Kleinberger als Hauptsorte am Rhein und an der Mos
Die
Rebsorte der kleinen Eiszeit wurde vor dem weltbekannten Riesling an
den Steilhangen der Mosel und im Rheintal angebaut. Es sind seine
"grünen", an den Sauvignon Blanc erinnenden Aromen, die früher im
Mischsatz dem Silvaner zusätzliches Bukett verliehen.
Vineyard in the Little Ice Age.
The variety of the Little Ice Age was planted before the world-famous Riesling on the steep slopes of the Moselle and in the Rhine valley. It is its "green" aromas, reminischent of Sauvignon Blanc which give additional bouquet to Silvaner blends.
Vineyard in the Little Ice Age.
The variety of the Little Ice Age was planted before the world-famous Riesling on the steep slopes of the Moselle and in the Rhine valley. It is its "green" aromas, reminischent of Sauvignon Blanc which give additional bouquet to Silvaner blends.
Red
Pierre Goigoux Damas Noir
Julia Harding MW writes (in Purple Pages);
This is a very old clone of Syrah, also called Petite Syrah Auvergnate. It had almost disappeared from the Auvergne 100 years ago but has been rescued from old vineyards and replanted in 2011 by Pierre Goigoux of Domaine de la Croix Arpin in Châteaugay. 15 years of research, vines selected from old vineyards, propagated and grafted, giving the first vintage in 2013.
Pierre Goigoux himself puts the story as follows on his back label (warning - cute!);
Fait divers reel: La mort il y a plus de 100 ans du Damas Noir, ou petite Syrah auvergnate.
Univers: A Chateaugay, sur les pentes les plus meridionales a 400m. d'altitude sur des sols argito-calcaires du piemont volcanique.
Enqueteur: Pierre Goigoux. Une quinzaine d'annees de recherches et de ressensement a travers tout le vignoble, ainsi que des travaux d'analyse pour evaluer et suivre l'etat sanitaire des plantes reperes puis greffes.
La disparition de ce cepage d'exception l'a toujours fascine et depuis 2011 il tente de le reintroduire sur ses meilleurs parcelles.
2013: premiere revelation. Le Damas Noir reapparait dans sa plus belle robe!
Desormais le Damas Noir ne vous lachera pas.
From this we understand that Goigoux took his plant material from the wider wine producing area of Chateaugay, no doubt identifying vines one by one rather than finding them in some collection such as a vine nursery. Chapeau!
NB. According to Galet there is a separate variety called Damas Rouge which is not to be confused with Damas Noir. It comes from Puy le Dome in the Rhone-Alpes as does our Damas Noir. We can't find a wine made with Damas Rouge. Maybe one day?
Nerantzi. Koniaros
Nerantzi makes a beautiful and individual wine from what they call an ancient Greek grape variety. It's called Koniaros. We are endebted to Markus Stolz for the following information:
Fact File Koniaros Area grown: Serres, Macedonia, in the far north of Greece, close to the Bulgarian border. Currently Domaine Nerantzi is the only producer of a varietal Koniaros. History: Koniaros is an ancient variety that had been left behind due to low yields. Nerantzi Mitropoulos came across vines in 1998. He had them DNA tested, registered Koniaros with the authorities, preserved and cultivates it. Grapes: Large, thick skinned berries. Koniaros is a late ripening variety; harvest typically takes place in the last week of September.
Julia Harding MW writes (in Purple Pages);
This is a very old clone of Syrah, also called Petite Syrah Auvergnate. It had almost disappeared from the Auvergne 100 years ago but has been rescued from old vineyards and replanted in 2011 by Pierre Goigoux of Domaine de la Croix Arpin in Châteaugay. 15 years of research, vines selected from old vineyards, propagated and grafted, giving the first vintage in 2013.
Pierre Goigoux himself puts the story as follows on his back label (warning - cute!);
Fait divers reel: La mort il y a plus de 100 ans du Damas Noir, ou petite Syrah auvergnate.
Univers: A Chateaugay, sur les pentes les plus meridionales a 400m. d'altitude sur des sols argito-calcaires du piemont volcanique.
Enqueteur: Pierre Goigoux. Une quinzaine d'annees de recherches et de ressensement a travers tout le vignoble, ainsi que des travaux d'analyse pour evaluer et suivre l'etat sanitaire des plantes reperes puis greffes.
La disparition de ce cepage d'exception l'a toujours fascine et depuis 2011 il tente de le reintroduire sur ses meilleurs parcelles.
2013: premiere revelation. Le Damas Noir reapparait dans sa plus belle robe!
Desormais le Damas Noir ne vous lachera pas.
From this we understand that Goigoux took his plant material from the wider wine producing area of Chateaugay, no doubt identifying vines one by one rather than finding them in some collection such as a vine nursery. Chapeau!
NB. According to Galet there is a separate variety called Damas Rouge which is not to be confused with Damas Noir. It comes from Puy le Dome in the Rhone-Alpes as does our Damas Noir. We can't find a wine made with Damas Rouge. Maybe one day?
Nerantzi. Koniaros
Nerantzi makes a beautiful and individual wine from what they call an ancient Greek grape variety. It's called Koniaros. We are endebted to Markus Stolz for the following information:
Fact File Koniaros Area grown: Serres, Macedonia, in the far north of Greece, close to the Bulgarian border. Currently Domaine Nerantzi is the only producer of a varietal Koniaros. History: Koniaros is an ancient variety that had been left behind due to low yields. Nerantzi Mitropoulos came across vines in 1998. He had them DNA tested, registered Koniaros with the authorities, preserved and cultivates it. Grapes: Large, thick skinned berries. Koniaros is a late ripening variety; harvest typically takes place in the last week of September.
Biblia Chora Biblinos Oenos unnamed local variety.
Unnamed local variety. You won't find that in any reference book! It just shows there may be even more varieties out there than we think there are. How exciting.
The story is that in 1998, when planting their first vineyard, a local farmer came to Biblia Chora and told them about a large and old vine nearby which supposedly had roots going down 20 metres. Cuttings were taken and in 2003/4, 70 bottles were made as an experiment. A year later 150 bottles were made. In 2006 the area planted with this mysterious local grape was 0.7 ha. In 2009, 1.3 ha. and now over 2 ha.
DNA analyses were made and it was established that the vine had no matches to any other. The variety has good resistantace to diseases and heat stress.
In 2008, a rose wine was made but in 2009, a red and since then this has been the norm.
One wonders why Biblinos Oenos doesn't come up with a name for this promising variety. Maybe Kavala, the name of the nearest town?
Fattoria di Gratena Gratena
Gratena is another variety different from all others. It is found in Toscana (near Arezzo). Fabio De Ambrogi, owner of Fattoria di Gratena has increased the 800 vines of this variety on his property by another 6,000 vines planted in 2000.
 |
| Fabio D'Ambrogi |
There is no sign of anyone else with plantings of Gratena.
Slarina. Douglas Wregg of 'Les Caves de Pyrene' writes;
'Fabrizio Iuli...planted more and more vineyards (9 ha in total) and cultivates Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir, but his speciality is Barbera. Recently, he has begun to rediscover other autochthonous varieties and to that end is producing some fascinating examples of the lesser known Grignolino (Natalin), Slarina (La Rina) and Baratuciat (Barat).
It seems likely that Italian viticultural authorities removed Slarina (amongst others) from the registry of recognised varieties during the country’s post-war viticultural renaissance because of its inconsistent productivity...'
You won't find Slarina either in D'Agata or in 'Wine Grapes.'
Finca Morenillo. Morenillo
Here's another winery named after its unique grape variety. Galet has an entry on Morenillo - Wine Grapes not. Morenillo is a unique and indiginous variety from Terra Alta (Catalunya). the vineyard was planted in 1902 and only 50 cases are made each year.
The variety is described as otherwise extinct. WOW!
Rebschule Martin. Hartblau
"Germany's oldest red wine variety"
This original variety could without furtjher ado be 8,000 years old! Easily Germany's oldest red wine variety it is almost a genetic twin of Süßschwarz. It has existed since the Bronze Age on the southwest shore of the Caspian Sea. It's name describes the robustness of the plant and the wine's acid and tannins. In earlier field blends Hartblau conferred better laying down potential and durability. Hartblau was considered inexistant in 2007!
❞Älteste Rotweinsorte Deutschlands❝
Diese
Ursorte kann ohne weiteres bis zu 8.000 Jahre alt sein! Die wohl
älteste Rotweinsorte Deutschlands ist fast ein genetischer Zwilling des
Süßschwarzes. Sie existiert seit der Bronzezeit am Südwestufer des
Kaspischen Meers. Sein Name beschreibt die Robustheit der Pflanze
und den Säure-, Gerbstoff- und Tanningehalt des Weines. In früheren
Rotwein-Cuvées und in einem historisch gemischten Satz verlieh der
Hartblau den Weinen eine bessere Lagerfähigkeit und Haltbarkeit. Der
Hartblau galt bis 2007 als nicht existent!
"Germany's oldest red wine variety"
This original variety could without furtjher ado be 8,000 years old! Easily Germany's oldest red wine variety it is almost a genetic twin of Süßschwarz. It has existed since the Bronze Age on the southwest shore of the Caspian Sea. It's name describes the robustness of the plant and the wine's acid and tannins. In earlier field blends Hartblau conferred better laying down potential and durability. Hartblau was considered inexistant in 2007!
Guarnaccino,
‘Recepit.’ 600 Grotte.
Vriniotis. Vradiano
Vradiano the back label reads; 'Former forgotten variety from Northern Evia. Vradiano is revived thanks to the cultivation and winemaking efforts of the people in the Vriniotis Winery.' Another heartwarming story. Vradiano is not mentioned in The Wines of Greece (Lazarakia), 'Wine Grapes' or even D'Agata (only jokimg). Galet has an entry of course in which we learn that Vradyano or Vradiano aka Vradinia or Bordiano is authorised in Thessaly, Central Greece and on the island of Euboea (Evia) which is where this wine comes from. Galet adds 'Vin rouge ayant un bon bouquet.'
We hope the whacking 15% alcohol doesn't hide this bon bouquet too much.
