A wine list by varieties

For reference here is a list of wines which are 100% expressions of the grape varieties discussed in these pages. By searching www.winesearcher.com or even better subscribing to winesearcher's 'pro' version, it may be possible to find a source for these wines.

Wine list by grape variety

White

A

Veiga Serrantes Albarino Rias Baixas, Spain 2004. 12%

Santiago Ruiz Albarino, Rias Baixas, 2009 Spain 13%

Terras Gauda ‘Abadia’ 2007 Albarino Rias Baixas

Aligote de Peissy Bernard Rochaix Les Perrieres, Geneva, 2004

Aligote de Lully, Luc & Liliane Mermoud, Lully, Geneva, 2004

QM Alvarinho Vinho Verde, Alvarinho 2008 Portugal. 12.5%

Alvarinho Vino Verde, Muros Antigos, 2006. 13%

Alvarinho Vino Verde, Deu la Deu, 2006. 13%

Mouras de Ariolas Reserva Branco, Antao Vaz, Alentejo, Portugal 2008. 13%

Crittenden Arneis, Mornington Peninsular, Australia 2001. 12.5%

Bucellas Caves Velhas Arinto, Bucelas, Portugal 2006. 12%

Hatzidakis Asyritiko, Santorini, 2007

Dom Diego Azal Vinho Verde, Minho, Portugal. 12.5%

B

Chapel Down Bacchus, Kent, UK 2007. 11%

Antoine Arena, Bianco Gentile, Corsica. 13%

Cederberg Bukettraube 2007, South Africa 14%

C

Pierre Overnoy Arbois Pupillin Chardonnay, Jura 2007, 12.5%

Bovard Terre a boire Epesses Fendant (Chasselas) Cully (Vaud), Switzerland 2007. 12.5%

Pierre Frick Chasselas Sans souffre, Alsace 2006

Kanu Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, 2004. 13.5%

Rotola Coda di Volpe ‘Leporello’, Beneventano, Campania, 2009. 12%

Alfa Zeta ‘S’ Soave (Cortese), Veneto, 2009

D

Bermejo Diego Seco Lanzarote, 2008. 13.3%

E

Schloss Proschwitz Elbling 2008, Sachsen. 11.5%

Cabriz Encruzado 2006

Terroir del Nord Erbaluce di Caluso 2008, 12.5%

La Rustia Erbaluce di Caluso 2006, 12.5%

F

Coriole Fiano, McLaren Vale, Australia 2008. 13%

Deletto Favorita Sarvai, Langhe. 13%

Terroir Pierre a Fusil Cuvee de Fié Gris Vielle Vigne, Touraine 2007, 12%

Sant’ Elisa Tocai Friulano Grave di Friuli 2008

Sipon (Furmint) Suho (dry) Stajerska Slovenja 2008. 11.5%

Heidi Schrock Weinbau Rust. Furmint 2006

G

Alfa Zeta ‘G’ Garganega, Veneto, 2009

Domaine du Matin Calme ‘Chamboultou’ Grenache Blanche, Languedoc/Rousillon vin naturel NV, 12%

D & P Belluard Vin de Savoie cepage Gringet 2007 ‘Terroir du Mont’ Les Alpes, 12%

Schloss Proschwitz Goldriesling 2006, Sachsen, Germany 11.5%

Gruener Veltliner Smaragd Pied Hoehereck Weingut Schweighofer Oberloiben 2004, Austria

Chanton Visp Gwäss (Gouais) Valais, 2006 Switzerland. 11.8%

H

Heida (Paien) St. Jodern-Kellerei, Visperterminen, 2004, Switzerland

Ewald Theod. Drathen Wintricher Grosser Herrgott Huxelrebe Beerenauslese

J

Colonjes Johanniter Groesbeek, Netherlands, 2008. 11.6%

L

Lafnetscha, Kellerei Chanton Visp, Vispertal, Valais, 2006, Switzerland

M

Arenae Malvasia Colares 2004

Marega Malvasia Istriana, Collio 2004. 13%

Stitti Mantonico, Calabria 2007. 13%

Causse Marines Gaillac ‘Zacmau’ Mauzac, 2004 Gaillac.13%

Robert & Bernard Plageoles Cepage Mauzac Roux, Gaillac Doux, 2007. 12%

Robert & Bernard Plageoles Cepage Mauzac Vert, 2006. 13.5%

Alambre Moscatel de Setubal 2000. 17%

Botani Moscatel Seco, Sierras de Malaga 2008. 13.5%

Marani Mtsvane NV Kakheti, Georgia 13.5%

Teva Muscat “Semi-Dry Wine” Binyamina, 2007, Israel

Dirler Cade Muscat 2007, Alsace

N

Cogno Anas-Cetta Nascetta, Langhe 2007. 13.5%

Villadoria Manolo Nebbiolo (vino da tavola bianco – ‘uva rosso vinificazione in bianco’) Serralunga d’Alba, 14%

Neuberger Spaetlese Goettweiger Berg Dinstlgut Loiben 2002

Vivallis Vigna Vallunga Nosiola, Trentino 2007, 12%

O

Plageoles Ondenc doux, Gaillac, 2001. 9.8%

P

Navazos Niepoort Palomino 2008. Spain. 12.5%

Caldora Pecorino, Abruzzo, Italy.

Domaine des Felines Picpoul de Pinet Languedoc 2007

Clos des Rochers Pinot Blanc 2006 Luxembourg

Zinck Pinot Blanc, Alsace 2006. 12.5%

Andre Kientzler Pinot Blanc 2006, Alsace

Pinot Blanc Classic Christian Fischer, Weingut Fischer, Soosz 2006

Escarpement Pinot Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand 2009. 13.5%

Bookers Vineyard Pinot Gris, W. Sussex, 2007

R

Hirschhorner Hof 2007 Riesling Buntsandstein, Pfalz, Germany

Hirschhorner Hof Riesling Brut 2007 (Sekt), Pfalz, Germany

Tbilvino Rkatsiteli 2008, Kakheti, Georgia 12.5%

Freigut Thallern Rotgipfler ‘Ried Student’ 2005. Gumpoldskirchen. 12%

S

Savatiano, Central Greece, 2007. 11.5%

Scheucher Scheurebe Auslese, Steuermark, Austria

Tyrrells Old Winery Semillon, Hunter Valley, Australia 2002. 10%

Denman Hunter Valley Semillon, Australia 2006. 10.5%

Brokenwood Semillon Hunter Valley 2006

Tyrrells Old Winery Semillon, Hunter Valley, Australia 2008. 11%

Keith Tulloch Hunter Valley Semillon 2009

Tyrrells Old Winery Hunter Valley Semillon 2009 11.5%

Qinta dos Currais Síria Beira Interior, Portugal, 2008. 13.5%

T

Pierre Picot Sainte Agathe Tresailler (= Sacy) 2008, Vin de Pays d’Allier (Saint Pourcin, Massif Central) 12%

Chakana Torrontes, Mendoza Argentina 2008. 13.5%

Michel Torino ‘Don David’ Torrontes Reserve 2008, Cafayate Argentina. 14%

Alfa Zeta ‘L’ Lugana (Trebbiano di Lugana), 2007. Veneto.

Terra Minei Treixadura, Ribeiro, 2008 Spain. 12.5%

Teliani Valley Tsolikouri 2007, Tvishi district of Lechkumi. Georgia, 13%

V

Blume Pagos del Rey Verdejo, Rueda 2009, Spain 13%

Maculan Breganze Vespaiolo 2007. 12%

Vilana Mediterra Crete 2008

Cuilleron Condrieu Viognier Les Chaillets 2009. 13.5%

Zidarich Vitovska Carso, Venezia Friuli Giulia, 2005. 12%

Sclavus ‘Metageitnion’ Vostilidi, Cephalonia 2009, Greece. 13.2%

W

Fuchs Welschriesling Steiermark trocken. Austria 2004. 11.7%

Welschriesling Classic Franz & Christine Netzl, Weingut Netzl, Goettlesbrunn 2004

Z

Freigut Thallern Zierfandler ‘Messwein’ Ried Wiege, Gumpoldskirchen, 2005. 14%

Orange

Ageno Malvasia di Candia, Emilia, Italy 2005. 12.5%

Ramato, Pinot Grigio, Channing Daughters, Bridgehampton, Long Island NY. 12%

Rosé

Strohmeier Blauer Wildbacher Schilcher Lestoa 2005, Weststeiermark, Austria. 12.5%

Strohmeier Blauer Wildbacher Schilcher 2007, Weststeiermark, Austria. 11.5%

Ackerman Cabernet Franc Rose, Maine-et-Loire NV Sparkling. 12%

Dom Diogo Vinho Verde Padeiro, Minho, Portugal 13%

Mionetto Rosado del Veneto Raboso Sparkling. 11%

Red

A

Aleatico ‘Aiu-Dag’ (“since 1862”) Massandra, Ukraine, 2001. 16%

Don Laurindo Ancelotta, Serra Gaucha, Brazil 2006. 12.5%

B

Vinoplod Vinaria Babić, Sibenik, Croatia NV. 14.3%

Luis Pato Baga Vinho Regional Beiras 2003 Portugal 12.5%

Lokal Calcario Baga 2005, Beiras, Portugal 14%

Barboursville Barbera Reserve, Virginia 2004. 13%

Strohmeier Blauer Wildbacher Lestoa Rot 2003, Weststeiermark, Austria. 13%

Strohmeier Blauer Wildbacher Rotsekt Brut NV, Weststeiermark, Austria. 12.5%

Zantho Blaufränkisch Burgenland, Austria 13%

Shooting Star “Blue Franc” Blaufränkisch, Washington State 2007. 13.5%

Heidi Schrock Weinbau Rust. Blaufraenkisch, Kulm, Burgenland, Austria, 2005

Il Saulino Bonarda Oltrepo Pavese, Novi Ligure, Italy 12%

Manvantara ‘Luretta’ Bonarda Colli Piacentini 2005, 13%

Sentito Croatina (Bonarda) Oltrepo Pavese, 13%

Nieto Senetiner Bonarda, Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, Argentina 2002. 13% (see also French ‘Folle Noire’)

Cinco Tierras Bonarda Mendoza, Argentina 2008. 14%

Colonia la Liebres Bonarda, Mendoza Argentina, 2008. 14%

Braida Brachetto d’Aqui (sparkling), Italy. 5.5%

Andrea Sottimano Brachetto Mate, Piemonte 2007

C

Borghese Reserve Cabernet Franc, North Fork, Long Island, NY. 2003. 12.5%

Grace Vineyard ‘Tasya’ Cabernet Franc, 2003. Shanxi, China. 12.5%

Domaine Grosbois Clos du Noyer Chinon, (Cabernet Franc) Loire 2006

Barboursville Cabernet Franc Reserve, Virginia 2006. 13.5%

Neethlingshof ‘Lord Neethling’ Cabernet Franc, Stellenbosch 2002. 13.5%

Ikon Cabernet Franc, Balatonboglar, 2007. Hungary. 13.5%

Chateau Changyyu-Castel Cabernet Gernischt 2003, Shandong Province, China. 12%

Lunaris Chorb Rheinau Cabernet Jura, Staatskellerei Zurich 2006. 11.5%

Cherchi Cagnulari, Sardinia 2009. 13.5%

Provenzano Canailolo, Toscana. 13%

Enzo Nocentini Canaiololo Tiberio ‘t’, Chianti, 2003

Bodegas Primicia Rioja Caravaccas Mazuelo (Carignan) 2005. Spain.13.5%

Vitkin Winery Carignan Central Coastal Plain, Israel. 2007 14%

Odfjell Orzada Carignan, Maule Chile, 2005. 14%

Inama Carmenere, Veneto. 14%

Centomoggia Casavecchia Terre dei Principi Castel Campagnano Campania 2006. 14%

Pelee Island Trial Chambourcin, Ontario, Canada, 2006

Principio Cilegiolo Maremma Toscana, 2008. 13.5%

Domaine Navarre Vin D’Oeillades (Cinsault aux grains plus allongés), Roquebrun, Languedoc, France.2008, 11.5%

Cjanorie Emilio Bulfon 2006. Friuli

Casanova de la Spinetta Colorino, Terracciola, Toscana 2005. 14%

Cordenossa Emilio Bulfon 2006. Friuli

Chant du Vent Cornalin Cuvee Henri Faure Vallais, Switzerland 2002. 13.2%

Cornalin de Chamoson F & D Giroud 2005

Alpha Zeta Corvina Veronese IGT 2008, 12.5%

D

Juliusspital Iphöfer Domina trocken 2007 Franken, 12.5%

Plageoles ‘Le Duras’, Duras, Gaillac 2005. 14%

E

Chanton Visp Eyholzer Roter, Valais, Switzerland 2006. 11.4%

F

Albino Armani Foja Tonda Vallagarina, Val d’Adige, Trentino 2004

La Folle Noire (= Negrette) d’Ambat ‘le Roc’ Fronton, NV 13% (see also Argentinian Bonarda)

Freisa di Chieri Secco Fermo, Andezeno, Piemonte, Italy. 13%

G

Gamaret Prestige Barrique, Staatskellerei Zurich 2007. 13%

Gamaret Futs de Chene Bernard Rochaix Les Perrieres Peissy, Geneva, 2005

NCT (National College Training) Vinery Gamay Noir, Niagara 2005. 12.7%

Marionnet Domaine de la Charmoise Vinifera Gamay 2005

Garanoir de Satigny Roger Burgdorfer Domaine du Paradis Satigny, Geneva 2004

P. Simonutty Gascon, Loire ‘Table’ NV (?), 12%

Les Cailloux du Paradis ‘Rouge Gascon, Soings en Sologne, Loire 12.2%

Zorzal Graciano, Navarra 13%

Rioja Vina Ljalba 2001. Graciano. Spain.14%

Domaine Cousin-Leduc Grolleau Vielles Vignes, Loire 2006

Costaripa ‘Maim’ Groppello Garda Classico “00” (2000,?), 12.5%

H

Benoit Dorsaz Humagne Rouge, Fully, AOC Valais, Switzerland. 13.2%

Humagne Rouge du Valais “Grandmaitre” Barrique Gregor Kuonen & Fils Caveau de Salquenen (Salgesch) 2005

L

Vigna Paradiso Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, San Lorenzo, Marche, 2003. 14%

Donati Camillo Lambrusco, Emilia Romagna 2008. 12%

Lambrusco Salamano Santa Croce, Reggio Emilio Sparkling 11.5%

Schatz ‘Acinipio’ Lemberger (aka Blaufraenkisch), Ronda, Malaga, 2002. Spain.13.5%

M

Thierry Puzelat, KO “In Cot (Malbec) we trust” Touraine 2007. 12.5%

Cot “Fruite” Vin du Pays du Lot 2005. France.12.5%

Chatons du Cedre Malbec 2007, Cahors 12.5%

Domaine de la Charmoise Touraine Vinifera Cot (Malbec) 2004

Santa Margherita Malbech 2007, Veneto Orientale 13.5%

Vie Cave Malbec Maremma Toscana 2005. 14%

Michel Torino ‘Don David’ Malbec Reserve 2007, Cafayate Argentina. 14%

Enzo Nocentini Malvasia Nera ‘t’ Terranuova Bracciolini, Arezzo, Italy

Cyprus Hills Maratheftiko. Pahos Regional Wine, Cyprus 2006. 12.5%

Bodegones Marselan Juanico, Uruguay 2008. 13%

Enigma, Mavrud 2006. Bulgaria. 13%

Sunny Hill Melnik 2005. Logodaj, Bulgaria. 13.5%

Pittacum 2003 Mencia. Bierzo, Spain. 13.5%

Baloiro Mencia Bierzo, Spain 13.5%

“Demencia” Mencia, Bierzo, Spain 2006. 14.5%

Domaine Lafon Veyrolles Bandol (Mourvèdre) 2004. 13.5%

N

Vin del Sole Negroamaro 2008, Puglia 13.5%

Cincinnati Nero Buono, Lazio, 2006. 13.5%

Antica Enotria Nero di Troia 2005, Puglia 12.5%

O

“OZ” Zyme Osoleta Provincia di Verona, 2006. 13.5%

P

Ambrusco Palagrello Nero Terre dei Principi Castel Campagnano Campania 2006. 14%

Clos Ouvert Païs, Maule, Chile 14%

Caruso Terre di Giumara Sachia Perricone. Sicily 2006. 14%

Podere Castorani Chambave Petit Rouge, Vallee d’Aoste, Italy. 12%

Chambave Petit Rouge Vallee d’Aoste, Millependi 2005

White Hall Vineyards Petit Verdot Monticello, Virginia USA.13%

Bodegas La Sangre de Ronda Petit Verdot 2006. Malaga, Spain. 13.5%

Vinosia Lacrima Christi de Vesuvio Piedirosso 2008, Campania 13%

Feudi di San Gregorio Lacryma Christi Piedirosso, Campania. 2006. 13%

Le verre des poètes, Pineau d’Aunis, Domaine Montrieux, Naveil, Vendome, Loir 12%

P. Simonutty Pineau d’Aunis, Loire ‘Table’ NV (?), 12%

Domaine Montrieux, Coteaux du Vendomois Pineau d’Aunis 2005. 12.5%

Les Longues Vignes Coteaux du Loir, Pineau d’Aunis 13%

Königsheimer Tauberklinge Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier) Tauberfranken, Baden 2006, Germany. 12.5%

Röser Sommerhäuser Ölspiel Schwarzriesling (Pinot Meunier) trocken. Franken, Germany 2006. 13%

WillaKenzie Pinot Meunier, Willamette Valley, Oregon 2003. 15%

Domaine Schlumberger Pinot Noir ‘Les Princes Abbés, Alsace 2007. 12.5%

Prophet’s Rock Pinot Noir, central Otago, New Zealand 2006. 14%

J.C. Leroux ‘Le Chanson’ sparkling Pinotage NV. South Africa. 7.5%

Klippenklop Pinotage Paarl, South Africa 2004. 13.5%

Svirce Vineyards Plavac Mali, Hvar, Croatia 2007. 13%

EmmanuelHouillon Poulsard, Arbois Pupillin, Jura, France 12.5%

Arbois Poulsard Vielle Vignes, Stephane Tissot 2006. 12.5%

Dominio Dostales Prieto Picudo Vino de la Tierra de Castilla Y Leon 2005. Spain 13.5%

Plageoles Domaine des trois Cantous Prunelart, Gaillac, 2008. 14%

San Felice, Pugnitello, Toscana, Italy 2004. 12.8%

R

Collares Reserva Ramisco, Visconde de Salreu, Portugal 1994 11%

Collares Reserva Ramisco Viuva Jose Gomes da Silva & Filhos, Portugal 1997. 11%

Colares Chitas Reserva Ramisco Portugal 2003. 11%

Colares Chitas Reserva Ramisco Portugal 1999. 11%

Colares Chitas Reserva Ramisco Portugal 1995. 11%

Colares Chitas Reserva Ramisco Portugal 1990. 11%

Colares Adega Regional Ramisco Portugal 1992. 11%

Colares Chitas Reserva Ramisco Portugal 1968. 11%

Colares C.V. Salreu Ramisco Portugal 1967. 11%

Arenae Colares Ramisco 2000, Portugal. 11.5%

Colares Fundacao Oriente Ramisco Portugal 2004. 14.5%

Ponto del Diavolo Refosco 2008, Friuli 12.5%

Fantinel Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso, 2002. Veneto. 13%

Ruchè di Castagnole Monferraro “Bric d’Blanc” Ferraris, Piemonte, 2007.

Ruchè di Castagnole Monferraro Majoli, Piemonte, 2008. 13.5%

S

St. Laurent Erich Sattler Weinbau, Tadten, Burgenland, Austria 2004

‘Calabria’ St. Macaire 2006. New South Wales, Australia. 14%

Pepi Sangiovese (“Grapes from different regions in California). 13.5%

Marani ‘Pirosmani’ Saperavi NV, Kakheti, Georgia. 12.5%

Orovela Saperavi 2004. Georgia. 12.5%

Marani ‘Mukuzani’ Saperavi, Georgia 13.5%

Satrapezo Saperavi 2006, Kakheti Georgia 13/5%

Domaine Comte Peraldi Sciaccarello, Ajaccio, Corsica 2007. 14%

T

Dal Maso Tai Rosso, Colli Berici, Veneto 2009. 12%

Piovene Porto Godi Tai Rosso Colli Berici, Veneto.13.5%

C’a Bruzzo Tocai Rosso (now Tai Rosso) Vigna Veccia, Colli Berici, Veneto 2008. 14%

Bodegas Carrau “Amat” Tannat, Cerro Chapeu, Uruguay 2005. 13.5%

Michel Torino ‘Don David’ Tannat Reserve 2007, Cafayate Argentina. 14%

Bodegas Bouza Tannat, Uruguay. 14.5%

Brown Brothers Tarrango Victoria, 2007

Binyamina Tempranillo Israel 2004

Foradori Teroldego Rotaliano, Alto Adige, Trentino, 2005

Allesverlorenen Tinta Barocca, Swartland, South Africa. 2005. 14.5%

Quinta Vale da Raposa Tinto Cao (sic) 2004, Douro, 13.5%

Sator Tintilia del Molise, 14%

ál Lagar de Cabrera Tinto Romé, Sierras de Malaga Spain.12,9%

Monte di Grazia Tintore, Tramonti, Costa Amalfitana, Italy 14%

White Hall Vineyards Touriga Naacional Monticello, Virginia USA.13%

Dal Pizzol Touriga Nacional, Bento Gonçalves, Brazil. 13%

De Krans Touriga Nacional Calitzdorp, Western Cape, South Africa 2002. 14%

Wickham Row Ash Red Triomphe d’Alsace, Hampshire, UK. NV 11.5%

Arbois Trousseau Grands Vergers Jura, France. 12.5%

Domaine André & Mireille Tissot, Trousseau "Singulier" Arbois, Jura, France 2005. 13%

Tenuta Zagaria Uva di Troia Vigna Grande 2005. Castel del Monte (BA), Italy. 13%

V

Terenzuola Vermentino Nero, Lunigiana, Toscana, 13%

Pianetta di Cagnore Vernaccia Nera, Marche 2001. Italy.13.5%

Brecce Rosse Vernaccia Nera, Serrapetrona, 2005. 14%

Afros Vinho Verde Vinhao 2008. Portugal

Don Diego Vinho Verde Vinhao, Minho, Portugal. 2009. 13%

Paris, splendeurs, misères...

We can sometimes get thrown by a word coming from left-field which makes us seriously doubt the ground on which we stand. This happened to us in a favourite shop specialising in Vins Naturels: the gentleman in charge pronounced that choosing wine by grape variety was not a valid criterion. We had been doing the usual trawl through the stock in search of lesser-known or unknown varieties which have brought so much interest and pleasure to our search for diversity. Finding little originality among the Vins Naturels made us suddenly realise that our two passions (Grape diversity and Natural Wine) are totally independent of eachother and true to type, the Frenchman was actually more interested in Terroir than Varietals.

As if to underline the fact, our next stop was Racine's in the Passage des Panoramas, the nerve centre of the Vin Naturel movement. We had vowed to eat there one day having found it closed on a previous visit months ago. There is no wine list. The bottles (about 100 we were told), were on shelves on the wall. The higher ones' labels could hardly be seen. Not wishing to drink an entire bottle even with a friend to help out, we asked what wines we could have by the glass and were told, if memory serves, a Sancerre, a Chablis, a Chenin Blanc, a Burgundy, a Toscano Rosso (Sangiovese) and maybe a Beaujolais (or was it a Bordeaux?). Anyway, nothing much of interest as far as varietals were concerned. We decided not to stay as the food was a little on the expensive side with €40 a likely cost per head.

More disappontments awaited us, this time probably thanks to French labour laws which mean that smaller wine shops have very erratic hours, opening at about 11.00, closing between 13.00 and 15.30 and going on until 20.00. Typically, they bring the roller-blinds down between times without any sign as to opening hours. In this way we missed 'le Chapeau melon' (92 Rue Rebeval, 19ième) who apparently were 10 minutes late in re-opening in the afternoon, never got to Julien (Rue Charlot, 3ième) which appeared closed over the two days we were in town, missed Le Versant Vins (Marché des Enfants Rouges, 39 Rue de Bretagne, 3ième) who were about to open when we passed by but already closed when we returned and the final disappointment; a ghost shop -'les Ultra Vins' near the Opera Bastille whose neighbours assured us had been closed these 5 or 6 years.

For all these there were an equal number of delights. The first was Caves Augé (fondée en 1850), 116, Boulevard Haussmann, in the 9ième.



- Paris's oldest wine-merchant and one which has not just moved with the times but has been a leader in Vin Naturel and has an eclectic selection of 'vins du monde'. They also have a multi-cultural and very well informed staff and the place is not too stuffy with so many wines on show it is better to ask rather than picking bottles out oneself for fear of knocking something over. They also retain the old system of having a lady behind a cash counter to take payments.

There we found again the Gringet we has so much enjoyed from Galéries Lafayette and another Mauzac from Robert et Bernard Plageoles in Gaillac, this time the Mauzac Roux (Douce).The next 'Splendeur' was the Caves du Panthéon, 174 Rue St. Jacques, 5ième

where a very businesslike and well-informed couple entered into our 'non-valid concept' willingly and immediately laid hands on the Rouge "Améthyste"

(Persan/Mondeuse) we had found previously chez Julien and then two absolutely new discoveries for us; Pierre Picot Sainte Agathe Tresailler (= Sacy) 2008, Vin de Pays d’Allier (Saint Pourcin, Massif Central) 12%

and a Greek wine made from 100% Vostilidi grapes; Sclavus ‘Metageitnion’ Cephalonia 2009, 13.2%. Apparently Vostilidi is a thick skinned white grape producing pronounced tannins. It is used mostly for 'village wines' (perhaps a more polite way of saying 'rustic'?).

The Caves du Panthéon is not nearly as large as Augé but they have some interesting specialities including Vins Naturels as well as about 20 Greek wines and no doubt others (the patron rejected any suggestion of specialisation).

Alsong the way we visited a place called 'La Dernière Goutte' which was nice but more conservative (6 Rue Bourbon le Chateau, 6ième) where the only cepage inconnu was a Bianco Gentile from Corse. This really is a rarity having been discovered during a census of the grapes of the island and brought back to life by a few producers. It apparently has loads of personality:

Le Bianco Gentile est un cépage qu'on ne trouve qu'en Corse et plus particulièrement du Cap Corse. Arraché à tour de bras au profit du Muscat, ce cépage avait presque complètement disparu. La station viticole expérimentale de Corse a sauvegardé des exemplaires de Bianco Gentile et a effectué des expérimentations durant une dizaine d'années. Antoine Arena a remplanté une parcelle en 1997. Ce vin est une rareté vinifiée en sec sur ce millésime (contrairement aux précédents) qui garde ses origines méditerrannéennes avec des notes de fruits blancs mûrs, de miel, de viennoiseries et une touche de rancio qui deviennent plus réglissées et minérales à l'aération. N'hésitez pas à le carafer au moins un heure et à le laisser longtemps dans le verre, vous serez surpris par son évolution (le verre vide est d'ailleurs particulièrement odorant). Toujours cet équilibre sur le fil du rasoir, aucune lourdeur et un équilibre remarquable. La bouche est marquée par le gras, la rondeur, et une finale longue et soyeuse avec une pointe d'amertume. Un vin séducteur et de caractère.

Finally, from a previously not particularly exciting chain, 'le repère de Bacchus', a Negrette which we learn is just a synonyme for 'Folle Noire' - d’Ambat ‘le Roc’ Fronton, NV 13%

and a promising Sciaccarello Domaine Comte Peraldi, Ajaccio, 2007. 14%.

London International Wine Fair, 18-20.5.10

A short visit but an informative one.

Egyptian wine (had no idea there was such a thing)
An excellent Sagrantino from Australia (ditto but not so surprising)Several Virginia Nebbiolos (see our post of 1.11.09)
Our first sighting (and tasting) of Posip (Croatia) Russian Sparkling Cabernet Sauvignon Öküzgözü (Turkey), Chateau Indage (Maharashtra, India)

Bumping into Carla Capalbo and Nicholas Belfrage

Some low-alcohol (5%) Bulgarian wines. Hearing that D&F (Portuguese wine shippers) would be trying to interest The Wine Society in listing Fundacao Oriente Colares (Red) - we hope they do. Tasting Australian Vermentino, Zuccardi’s first Torrontes from Salta, Chilean
Carignan

Some of these were more positive than others. The Gianaclis vineyards near Alexandria, Egypt were established in 1882 and the present (Bordelais) winemaker Sebastien Boudry makes refreshingly light bodied whites and reds from French and Spanish varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, Bobal, Tempranillo and Viognier and something called Sultanine Blanche which turns out to be Thompson Seedless).

The Sagrantino was by Andrew Peace, Murray River and is a dead ringer for an Umbrian one. The variety is difficult to grow and always expensive, so unlikely to find its way to the UK market.

There was amazingly enough an entire group of exhibitors from Virginia including Barboursville, Breaux, New Horizon, Kluge, Potomac Point, Veramar and Veritas Vineyards. We finally tasted the Barboursville Nebbiolo and Viognier which had proved so elusive von our trip to DC last October and other Nebbiolos were good enough to suggest they really could be the signature grape of Virginia. A conversation with one of the exhibitors here allowed us to demonstrate our woeful ignorance of this region of America: we had been able to drift this far in life without realising there are two separate states, one called Virginia and another completely different state called West Virginia. Both produce wine (actually all states do so now) but Virginia is the more prominent. Out informant further told us that it was forbidden to ship Virginian wine to West Virginia! The influence of Prohibition is still alive and malignant.

Neither Posip nor the other grapes from Russia, Turkey, Australia and Argentina were much of a revelation and the Indian wines did not shine. The Bulgarian low alcohol efforts will not solve the problem of making good low-alcohol wine, but Nicholas Belfrage made a pronouncement on Tai Rosso (see post of 26.3.10) to the effect that this grape, formerly known as Tocai Rosso is indeed nothing else than Grenache. Coming from this source we can say the opinion must be definitive and the matter is now resolved!

Despite all these exciting experiences gained in a very short visit and regretting not having time for a great many more which may have been on offer, our predominant impression of the fair was that the money is overwhelmingly on the safe conservative tried and tested blue chip side of the industry and probably nothing is going to change that any time soon. A pity really.

We were wrong

We were wrong in a recent post (9.3.09) to dismiss Sparkling wine pretty much out of hand. It didn't mean that we stopped our researches and predictably we found something outstanding soon after our negative pronouncement: Ackerman's Sparkling Cabernet Franc (Rosé) from the Loire (12%), £7.99 from Waitrose.

It is really very good indeed.

Ackerman - Maison fondee en 1811 - own extensive vineyards in the Loire and with this Sparkling Cabernet Franc Rosé show their mastery in being able to produce such a delightful wine at such a reasonable price. We can't say we can recall many sparkling Cabernet Francs but why not?

We can put this effort next to the Sparkling Raboso by Mionetto we used to get from Corney and Barrow. Unfortunately Mionetto seem to have re-branded this delightful wine and the restrained bottle with the pink cordon seems to have been replaced with something altogether more blousy. Let's hope the wine is the same or similar. Finally let's not forget the Weinmanufaktur Riesling Sekt from Untertürkheim already mentioned in our post of23.12.09.