Sunday, 27 March 2016

Amazing Aramon Gris

Aramon is perhaps the most productive grape of all time or so they say. It comes in three colours, Noir, Blanc and Gris although Noir (red) is the basic and most common one. Wine made from this grape is commonly held to be 'ordinaire'. That is a euphemism. Pierre Cros even made a blend of grape he called 'Les mal aimes': Picpoul noir, Alicante Bouchet, Carignan and - you guessed it, Aramon. Of these Aramon is considered the worst as far as quality is concerned

Grigri's orange colour shows even through green glass
How astonishing then to find an outstanding Orange wine made from Aramon's 'Gris' mutation: Le Grigri by Paul Reder of Hautes Terres de Comberousse, a 30 ha. property 45 minutes West of Montpellier in the Herault, Langedoc. Reder and his family do not make red wines. Their other cepages are Chasan, Chardonnay, Clairette, Grenache blanc, Roussanne and Rolle (Vermentino).

Orange wines can disappoint. This one does not. We place it alongside La Stoppa from Ageno (Malvasia di Candia Aromatica 60%, Ortrugo and Trebbiano 40%) and Forlorn Hope's Pinot Gris 'Kirschenmann'.
Forlorn Hope's Pinot Gris Orange Wine from the Kirschenmann vineyard, Lodi, California

Congratulations to Paul Reder. He seems to be a clever guy, giving up a no doubt lucrative career as an oil executive in Texas to take over the family vineyard. Thanks also to the Paris caveiste Chapitre 20 whose praises we have sung in this blog before.

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