Slotovino: Bolivian wine, Drapers Arms, Barnsbury. August 19th.

An old and good friend Charles ('Scum') Taylor lives most of the time in Spain these days but has contacts all over the world when it comes to wine. Back in August this year he invited us to a Bolivian wine tasting to be held at the Drapers Arms in Barnsbury, London.

Yokich at the 2022 London Wine Festival

Bolivian wine? That seemed novel. Yet a niggling memory suggested maybe not. After a very long time indeed and a trawl through the photos on our mobile we made the connection to a conversation at the 2022 London Wine Fair where we met a representative of the Bolivian producer Yokich.

Patricia Mendoza of Yokich was on hand for this tasting despite having just given birth a week previously. We were honoured.

Jancis Robinson has described Bolivia as 'one of the most remote, challenging and intriguing wine regions in the world.' Purple Pages have given these wines scores of 16, 16.5 and 17. Impressive.

Nayan Gowda himself.

Charles had mentioned the name Nayan Gowda but it was only once we had arrived at the Drapers Arms that we began to understand his role in the procedings.

Nayan is a candidate for 'the most extraordinary person you have ever met.' He is actually the maker of most of he wines on show. He began his 'stint' in the Cinti valley and thereabouts in 2000. Deciding to move on only this year, that makes his time in Bolivia probably the longest he has ever stayed in one place. On his own admission he gets bored easily which explains his amazing CV.

Nayan, one of the friendliest and most affable people in wine.

It goes something like this:

Born in Sheffield. Indian heritage

University of Sheffield

Numerous jobs includuing as Chef at The Ivy, charitable work, John Armit, J.P. Morgan

2002-6 Studied Oenology at Adelaide

2007 Pikes Cellar Hand. Baron von Twickel, Szekszard, Kendermann, Pfalz.

2009 Brancott Estate

2010 Crimea

2011 Chateau Karakemer, Kazakhstan

Winemaker without Portfolio consulting. Dubbed 'The Indiana Jones of Winemaking.'

Present: Winemaker without Portfolio consulting at Vinosity, London.

Vines trained up trees are a feature in the Cinti Valley.

Winemaking in Bolivia was started 500 years ago with the Spanish invasion and conquest.

Our tasting consisted of wines made by Nayan from the Cinti Valley and also from Tarija where around 70% of Bolivian vines are situated.

As if all this wasn't truly amazing, we are happy to report that the wines themselves were fascinatingly original. Not a surprise as some unique grape varieties are a hallmark of winemaking especially in the Cinti Valley, These include the unique Vischoqueña, whch is grown nowhere else, and is a cross between Criolla Negra and Muscat of Alexandria. There is also the extremely rare Ribier Noir, originally from the Rhone valley and various Criollas alonside Muscat a petits grains, Moscatel, Sangiovese, Tannat, Tempranillo, Barbera, Cabernet Sauvignon and other international varieties.

The wines made by Nayan are called 'Jardin Oculto.' Other wines go under the name Alma Oculto and Magnus, These are also from Cinti and are made by friends of Nayan.

1. Casa Solum. Ribier, 'Cultura Liquda' Petnat tinto. Tarija. 2025. 12.4%

2. Jardin Oculto Vischoqueña Blanc de Noir, 2023. Cinti. 12.1%

3. Bodega Yokich Muscat a petits grains. White wine from 300 year old vines. Largest collection of clones in South America. Five generations of women have worked in the winery. Cinti Valley. 2023. 13%

4. Bodega Yokich Imporena. Cepa Centenaria. White. Cinti Valley. 2023. 14.5%

5. Jardin Oculto. Roselo. Finca San Roque. Last grapes to be harvested. Criolla field blend. Rose. Single Vineyard. Vinyas Viejas. Cinti Valley 2024.

6. Negra Criolla. Finca Molle Pampa, Red. Single Vineyard. Vinyas Viejas. This Criolla has its origins in Southern Spain. The plants were imported as seeds. Cinti Valley. 2023. 13.5%

7. Jardin Oculto. Negra Criolla. Red. Finca San Roque. Cinti Valley. Single Vineyard. Vinas Viejas. 2022, 14%

8. Jardin Oculto. Criolla. Single Vineyard. Vinas Viejas. Red. Finca Los Membrillos Cinti Valley. 2023. 13%

9. Jardin Oculto. Tannat Nouveau. Red. Tarija. 2024. 11.5%

10. Bodegas Yokich 'Misionera.' Cepa Centenaria.' Red. Mission/Negra Criolla with 5% Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Predominantly from arboreal vines between 100 and 300 years old. Cinti Valley 2021. 11.5%.