Professor Stephen Bayley is a man of many parts. A prolific author of books on design, Architecture, cultural phenomena of all kinds, former Lecturer on The History of Art (Kent University), director of The Boilerhouse Project at the Victoria and Albert Museum which evolved into the Design Museum under his management, contributor to a huge range of consumer, trade and professional publications, the Observer's Architectural correspondent, writer of a series of TV documentaries, guest on 'Have I got news for you' and much else. He is known simply as the Design Guru.'
He has also found time as a member of the Wine Committee of the Athenaeum Club in London to organise a series of Wine Dinners, the first of which was devoted to the wines and food of Greece. Although quite a bold initiative for members whose comfort zone is normally Bordeaux and Burgundy, this was a great success so he decided to invite Slotovino to present a panorama of wines made from rare grape varieties.
This we were happy to do because our collection was taking up a lot of cupboard space and the prospect of drinking all that wine ourselves was doubtful. Not being able to invite people round during the pandemic was also a reason and in the end we found 58 bottles we judged as being of possible interest. About half of these were we thought from varieties made by one producer alone and the other half by possibly 2 or 3 or at most a handful of producers only.
The figure 58 had been purely accidental so we thought why not finagle that to 57 in order to give the selection a memorable hook. It was easy to ditch one bottle but during the research needed to provide the thumbnails for each wine, we discovered two wines that were actually from grapes relatively widely grown. Fortunately there were two substitutes we had unaccountably omitted in the first place - Poszony Feher and Czokaszolo, both from Hungary.
The evening had sold out in record time which was very gratifying and members showed genuine interest in the rare varieties on tasting. However with an estimated 85 tasters and only 57 bottles you might have thought that we would have run out of wine. Not so. Indeed some bottles remaines half full by the time we all went in to a delicious dinner (with Burgundy and Bordeaux accompaniments).
What was interesting was the variety of opinions expressed; some said they loved certain wines and hated others. Everyone had a different opinion on each wine as to what it reminded them of and so forth.
Below are the thumbnails on each wine. We haven't included any photos of labels because most of these wines were logged on Slotovino over the last few years so for more information just put the name into our search engine.
Bouysselet
Chateau
La Colombiere. Le grand B, Bouysselet. Vin de France. 2016. 14%
Bouyssales is mentioned in Wine Grapes (as well as in Galet) but as a red grape
- a synonym for Cot (Malbec). Bouysselet has its own entry in Galet who says it
is a white grape and gives Prunelard blanc as a synonym in Fronton.
There appears to be 3.5 ha. of Bouysselet in existance (2018). Diane and
Phlippe Cauvin are the owners and winemakers of Chateau La Colombiere in
Fronton indeed.
The story is the Cauvins were researching the history of winegrowing in Fronton
and came across a grape they hadn't heard of before - Bouysselet. They
discovered that a local nursery had kept this vine alive for research purposes
as well as a little winemaking they had it propagated and bought it back to life
in their vineyard.
They have made wine from this variety in an attempt to 'stop taste
banalization.' (Great expression!).
Coda di Pecora
Il verro. Coda
di Pecora. Terre del Volturno, Campania. Italy. 2018. 12.5%
We know that 'Sheep,' Coda di Pecora is unique because the producer, Cesare
Avenio told us so. We met him and his family at Autochtona 2019, Bolzano.
'Wine Grapes' says it is always blended with other local varieties. D'Agata
relegates it to the 'Little Known and Traditional Grape Varieties' section and
says it 'is used mainly as a blender...on its own it's too meager, neutral, and
flat.' We hope Sr. Avenio's effort is different.
Gelber Kleinberger
Rebschule
Martin. Historische Rebsorten. Gelber Kleinberger. Rheinland-Pfalz. Germany.
2018. 12.5%
Weinanbau
in der Kleinen Eiszeit
Schon
vor dem Riesling wurde der Kleinberger als Hauptsorte am Rhein und an der Mosel
Die Rebsorte
der kleinen Eiszeit wurde vor dem weltbekannten Riesling an den Steilhangen der
Mosel und im Rheintal angebaut. Es sind seine "grünen", an den
Sauvignon Blanc erinnenden Aromen, die früher im Mischsatz dem Silvaner
zusätzliches Bukett verliehen.
Vineyard in the Little Ice Age.
The variety of the Little Ice Age was planted
before the world-famous Riesling on the steep slopes of the Moselle and in the
Rhine valley. It is its "green" aromas, reminischent of Sauvignon
Blanc which give additional bouquet to Silvaner blends.
Gruner Adelfrankisch
Rebschule Martin.
Historische Rebsorten. Grüner Adelfränkisch.
Rheinland-Pfalz. Germany. 2018. 12.5%
❞Edelsorte im
Mittelalter❝
Eine
Ursorte, die schon vor 5.000 Jahren kultiviert wurde, ist mit Traminer und
Süßschwarz verwandt. Seit dem Mittelalter ist diese autochthone Rebsorte in der
Mark Brandenburg dokumentiert. Sie gehörte zum Kernsatz der altfränkischen
Rebsorten, die seit dem 8. Jahrhundert n.Chr. aus Mähren importiert und in den
Mischsätzen Deutschlands heimisch geworden ist. Ihre Robustheit und die gute Traubenreife,
verbunden mit einem edlen Weinaroma, macht sie für den heimischen Weinanbau
sehr wertvoll. Bis 2007 galt dieses Juwel als ausgestorben.
"Noble Variety from the Middle Ages."
An original variety cultivated already
more than 5,000 years ago is related to Traminer and Süßschwarz. The variety
has been documented in Brandenburg since the middle ages. It belongs to the
core group of ancient grape varieties imported from Moravia since the 8th
century AD which as crossings have become native to Germany. Its robustness and
good ripening qualities combined with noble aroma makes it very valuable for
the native vineyard. Until 2007 this jewel was considered extinct.
Grünfränkisch
Rebschule Martin, Historische
Rebsorten. Grünfränkisch. Rheinland-Pfalz.
Germany. 2018. 12%
❞Wein der
Liebfrauenmilch❝
An
einer 300 Jahre alten Sortenbeschreibung lässt sich ableiten, dass nicht
Riesling, sondern sehr wahrscheinlich Grünfränkisch die eigentliche Rebsorte
der weltbekannten Liebfrauenmilch war. Bereits im 16. Jahrhundert wurde der
Grünfränkisch für die Südpfalz erwähnt. Die Historie dieser wertvollen Rebsorte
geht zurück in die Antike und fand über Nordungarn ihre Heimat am Rhein. Bis
zur ihrer Wiederentdeckung in Jahr 2009 galt diese Rebsorte als ausgestorben.
From a 300-year-old variety description
we can deduce that very probably Grünfränkisch and not Riesling was the actual
variety of grape for the world famous Liebfrauenmilch. Grünfränkisch was
already mentioned in the Südpfalz (South Palatinate) in the 16th century.. The
history of this worthy grape goes back to antique times and found its home on
the Rhine via north Hungary. Until its rediscovery in 2009 it was considered
extinct.
NB. The ghastly monniker
'Leibfraumilch' with its inappropriate connotation of blue nuns is of course a
total misnomer. Its off-puttingly sexist innuendo has justly been consigned to
the dustbin. The original name was 'Liebfrauenmilch' and there were no nuns,
blue or otherwise. The Liebfrauenmilch referred to the vineyard of the
Liebfrauenkirche (Church of our Lady) in Worms. The term Liebfraumilch began to
be used in the 18th century mostly for exported wine. That didn't turn out too
well. Riesling has struggled to overcome the crass marketing gimmick and taste
of the semi-sweet beverage foisted on a less discriminating world last century.
Grunspitz
Nachbil Winery Grunspitz. Beltiug, Transylvania.
Romania. 2018. 12%
“The Brutler & Lieb vineyard is a well-known local
representative of natural wines. There is one variety of wines that is capable
of representing the true values of the viticulture region of Beltiug and this
is our Grünspitz. Grünspitz is a variety of grapes, that exists only in our
region. There are no other vineyards based on this variety, so this could have
vanished. A few years ago, we grafted this variety on new plants and started a
new vineyard. So this is the only vineyard in the world with this variety.”
Connolly’s Wine
Merchant website.
Melissaki
Lyrarakis Melissaki. (Orange Wine). Geroditi Vineyard,
Central Crete. Greece. 2019. 13.2%
‘Melissaki is a variety that was almost forgotten,
found growing in the foothills of Mount Psiloritis. Lyrarakis worked with it,
liked it, and planted some in their Gero-Deti vineyard in 2010.’
Wine Anorak.
‘The grape “Melissaki” (small bee in English), once
endangered, was planted by the family Lyrarakis in 2010 in the family vineyard
“gerodeti” in the mountainous region of Alagni in Central Crete.’
Oinolux website.
Monstruosa de Monterrei
Quinta
de Muradella. Monstruosa de Monterrei. Monterrei. Spain. 2015. 13.5%
Wine Grapes: Extremely rare, recuperated
Galician capable of producing light, fresh aromatic whites.
The rescuer was Jose Luis Mateo of Quinta de Muradella, Monterrei.
Robert Parker's team write:
Only in its second vintage and bottled separately after the initial 2012 from
the 790 plants he has, the 2015 Monstuosa de Monterrei is a true rarity, from
an obscure grape with high acidity....It was traditionlly used in blends with
Dona Blanca to give them acidity; it was planted in all the old vineyards in a
proportion 2% to 3%. Lip-smacking. There were 500 litres of this that filled
some 600 bottles. It was bottled in 2017.
Montepilas
Marenas
2017 Cordoba-Andalucia Montepilas. Spain, 2018. 11%
Listed in neither ‘Wine Grapes. Nor Galet.
‘A fascinating white from José Miguel Márquez,
winemaker at Marenas Viñedo y Bodega, in Andalucia. Montepilas is an indigenous
grape, found only in the Montila-Moriles D.O. (Denominación de Origen). Though
it very much looks and acts like an orange wine, it is in fact a direct press.
The skins of Montepilas grapes get pretty dark when ripe, so all color comes
naturally from the skins without maceration.’
Eben Lillie,
Chambers St. Wine newsletter.
Orpicchio
Donne
Fittipaldi Lady F, Orpicchio. Bolgheri. I.G.T. Toscana. Italy. 2015. 13.5%
Turning to D'Agata (of course), we learn that Orpicchio was grown in Toscana in
the mid-19th century. The last few vines were found in the vineyard of Fattoria
del Petrolo. They were reproduced by the experimantal station of the Unita per
Ricerca of Arezzo.
D'Agata writes that there were no monovarietal wines currently being produced
to the best of his knowledge (around 2014).
The Donne Fittipaldi wine-maker Emiliano Falsini explains, “Orpicchio is a
white-grape native vine, cultivated in the area of Arezzo in the past, and
traces of it had gone lost over the years. Nowadays, just 2 hectares of it are
cultivated and Lady F. 2015 is the first large-scale production of monovarietal
Orpicchio.
Sadly our bottle of Orpicchio was corked.
Roussellou
Domaine
le Verdus Roussellou. I.G.P. Aveyron. France. 2018. 11.6%
Now we are in real Terra Incognita with Roussellou. No mention in Wine Grapes
or Galet although the latter has 'Rousselon Blanc = Saint Pierre dore dans
l'Aveyron.' Indeed, Le Verdus is in St. Come (venue for the Rencontres des
cepages modestes by the way) in the Aveyron. Checking Galet's entry for St,
Pierre dore, we find Rousselou (with one 'l') listed as a synonym in the
Aveyron.
St. Pierre dore counted 125 ha. in 1958, 2 ha. in 1988 and 0.39 ha. in 2011 in
L'Allier (Vichy) - nowhere near L'Aveyron. Galet adds ominously 'Ce cepage est
en voie de disparition.' So Philippe Rousseau of Domaine le Verdus may well be
the only producer these days. The story is that a winemerchant from Rodez,
Alain Falguières makes wine from a property at Salles-la-Source where he is
also re-introducing old grape varieties. Apparently the Aveyron used to be one
of the areas of France with the greatest number of local varieties such as
Cepage St. Come and Prunelard de Nauviale.
In 2015 Philippe Rousseau of Le Verdus was persuaded by Falguières to plant
1000 vines of Roussellou and here is the result.
Trepadell
Curii
uvas y vinos. Trepadell Blanco (80%) and Merseguera (20%). Alicante, Valencia.
Vino de Espana. 2017. 12.5%
No mention in Wine Grapes or Galet. The internet tells us that Trepadell or
Trapadell is a synonym for Forcallat Blanca. Wine grapes tells us that
Forcallat Blanca is a synonym for Airen, one of the most planted varieties in
Spain. Indeed there are 284,623 ha. of Airen comprising 26% of the national
vineyard. Since Airen is frequently planted as low-density bushvines, it may be
grown on more land than any other variety in the world!
So why include it here? Our Trepadell comes from Curii uvas y vinos situated in
the Marina Alta region of the autonomous community of Valencia and returning to
the Forcallat Blanca entry in Wine Grapes, we read that 'The name Forcallat
Blanca...is also the name of a distinct variety from Valencia that is no longer
cultivated commercially but has a unique DNA which means that it is not a white
mutation of Forcallat Tinta from Castilla-La-Mancha. It is nevertheless authorised
in Vino-de-la-Tierra Murcia in South-East Spain.'
There may be others who used Trepadell. Javi (also Valencia) blends it
variously with something called Tortosi (Tortozon?), Malvasia, Merseguera and
Verdil.
Curii uvas y vinos's Trepadell is blended with 20% Merseguera. Only 316 bottles
were made.
Curii is the property of Alberto Redrado and Violeta Gutiérrez de la Vega.
Alberto is a former Mejor Sommelier of Spain and Violeta is an enology graduate
of the University of Bordeaux and has worked in Pauillac and Sauternes.
Vinyater
Dasca Vives
Vinyater. Finca El Freixa, Alt Camp. Tarragona. Catalunya. Spain. 2017. 13%
All Galet can say about Vinyater is that it has a synonym, Vinyate, that it is
a Spanish white grape with 13 ha. in 2009 and is authrised in 'Catalogne.'
In 2012 a series of Vinyater strains was taken from the vineyard of the Les
Espelmes estate in Puigpelat planted between 1948 and 1952 with a view to
including Vinyater in the Tarragona D.O.
There is at least one other producer working with Vinyater, Bodegas Partida
Creus who say that there are only 9 ha. left now. So rather than leave this
interesting variety out we award Partida Creus and Dasca Vives together with
Ramon Gavarró of Les
Espelmes
credit for saving the grape.
You may also find Vinyater named 'Raïm vinyater' but don't worry, raïm is just
the word for grape in Catalan.
Red
Beier
Els Bardissots Beier. Valles Oriental, Alella,
Catalunya. Spain. 2018. 12%
Oriol Artigas and his friend Pep have a small winemaking
project they call Els Bardissots, and this is one of the wines they make
together. Beier is the name of the grape, and also the word for "bee
house," as there is some history of beekeeping that is intertwined with
the history of the variety. As far as Oriol knows, there is only one remaining
site in Catalunya, owned by an old man who makes wine for personal consumption.
Oriol and Pep managed to befriend this old man over time and now help with the
farming and make a small amount of wine that they bottle and sell.
Carrasquin
Bodegas Obanca. Castro de Limes, Asturias, Spain. 2011. 14.5%
Possibly related to Alfrocheiro and Prieto
Picudo, Carrasquin is ‘too minor to feature in official statistics...the
variety is authorised in the Vino de la Tierra de Cangas the regional wine from
south-western Asturias.’ (‘Wine Grapes’). It is used mainly for Rose wines.
Damas Noir
Pierre
Goigoux Domaine de la Croix Arpin. Damas Noir. Puy le Dome I.G.P, Auvergne.
France. 2017. 12%
Julia Harding MW writes (in Purple Pages);
This is a very old clone of Syrah, also
called Petite Syrah Auvergnate. It had almost disappeared from the Auvergne 100
years ago but has been rescued from old vineyards and replanted in 2011 by
Pierre Goigoux of Domaine de la Croix Arpin in Châteaugay. 15 years of
research, vines selected from old vineyards, propagated and grafted, giving the
first vintage in 2013.
Pierre Goigoux himself puts the story as follows on his back label (warning -
cute!);
Fait divers reel: La mort il y a plus de
100 ans du Damas Noir, ou petite Syrah auvergnate.
Univers: A Chateaugay, sur les pentes les plus meridionales a 400m. d'altitude
sur des sols argito-calcaires du piemont volcanique.
Enqueteur: Pierre Goigoux. Une quinzaine d'annees de recherches et de
ressensement a travers tout le vignoble, ainsi que des travaux d'analyse pour
evaluer et suivre l'etat sanitaire des plantes reperes puis greffes.
La disparition de ce cepage d'exception l'a toujours fascine et depuis 2011 il
tente de le reintroduire sur ses meilleurs parcelles.
2013: premiere revelation. Le Damas Noir reapparait dans sa plus belle robe!
Desormais le Damas Noir ne vous lachera pas.
From this we understand that Goigoux took his plant material from the wider
wine producing area of Chateaugay, no doubt identifying vines one by one rather
than finding them in some collection such as a vine nursery. Chapeau!
Fekete Jardovany
Attila Gere
Fekete Járdovány. Villany, Hungary. 2018. 13.5%
‘This is a really one-of-a-kind wine, made from an ancient
Carpathian basin grape which is hardly grown anywhere. This is probably the
only commercially-available wine made from this grape. It’s believed that
Fekete Járdovány was a popular variety in southern Hungary before phylloxera
destroyed most of Europe’s vineyards at the end of the 19th century. This
variety almost went extinct. The Vine and Wine Research Institute of Pécs is
well-known in Hungary for preserving ancient Hungarian and Central European
wine grapes. The Gere Winery started working with the institute to revive seven
rare Carpathian Basin varieties, including this one. In 2004 they planted just
two rows of each of the seven varieties. After a few years, Fekete Járdovány
showed great potential, so they decided to plant it in two of their premium
vineyards: Csillagvölgy and Ördögárok. 2011 was the first vintage produced
exclusively out of Fekete Járdovány. Since it is not included in the list of
grape varieties approved under the Villány wine appellation, it is labeled
simply as red wine without indication of origin. In the glass, Fekete Járdovány
has a pale cherry-red color with pink reflections. It has aromas of sweet
vanilla, caramel, ripe black cherry, and coffee (due to the 10 months it spent
aging in small oak barrels). With 13.5 percent alcohol, this reminds us of a
Nebbiolo-based wine, with its pale color, elevated tannins and acidity, long
finish, and flavors of caramel, cherry, and coffee. This wine represents the
effort of generations of winemakers and ampelographers to revive ancient grape
varieties. And we are thankful for that!’
Notes from ‘Tasting Table, Budapest.’
Grosse Merille
Korta Grosse
Merille. D.O. Sagrada Familia, Chile. 2019. 13%
On the Wine Independent Press site we found the following:
First of all, Grosse Mérille was more
commonly known as Gros Verdot previously. Back to 'Wine Grapes.' Gros Verdot'
we learn is not only no relation to Petit Verdot but has been banned from
planting in the Gironde since 1946 even though it was an important variety in
the 19th century.
It is said to have been an important
ingredient in a Bordeaux wine named Comte de Queyries after the Queyries
quay along the Gironde in Bordeaux and has all but disappeared now.
As with Carmenere, Bordeaux loss has been Chile's gain. In Chile it has become
known as Verdot Chileno or just Verdot. Gros Verdot/Grosse Mérille/Verdot
Chileno/Verdot survives there having been brought with other varieties in the
19th century. It was also taken to California where it tends to be confused
with Cabernet Pfeffer.’
The story of how
Francisco Korta of the Korta winery enlisted the collaboration of Philippo
Pszczolkowski (Ps-chol-kovski) a distiguished faculty member of the department
of Fruit Culture and Enology of the Pontificia Universidad de Chile.
Pszczolkowski had recommended Verdot Chileno to Konta having carried out
rigorous researches on it to prove its integrity as a stand-alone variety
(unrelated to Mérille) and having also traced its lineage as an import from its
home in France by molecular studies by INIA (Instituto de Investigaciones
Agropecuarias, Chile) together with INRA (Institut National de la Recherche
Agronomique, Vassal Collection, Marseillan France).
Philippo was very conscious of the limited number of vinifera varieties planted
in Chile and saw the decline of Verdot Chileno as something to be combatted.
Francisco took on the challenge and planted 2.5 ha. After various trials and
errors he found a method of vinification which best suited the variety and
chose to call it Grosse Mérille rather than Verdot Chileno, Verdot or Gros
Verdot in order to avoid any misunderstanding with Petit Verdot. A sound
decision.
‘Slotovino,’
7.4.20
Hartblau
Rebschule
Martin. Historische Rebsorten. Hartblau. Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany. 2017. 13.5%
❞Älteste
Rotweinsorte Deutschlands❝
Diese
Ursorte kann ohne weiteres bis zu 8.000 Jahre alt sein! Die wohl älteste
Rotweinsorte Deutschlands ist fast ein genetischer Zwilling des Süßschwarzes.
Sie existiert seit der Bronzezeit am Südwestufer des Kaspischen Meers. Sein
Name beschreibt die Robustheit der Pflanze und den Säure-, Gerbstoff- und
Tanningehalt des Weines. In früheren Rotwein-Cuvées und in einem historisch gemischten
Satz verlieh der Hartblau den Weinen eine bessere Lagerfähigkeit und
Haltbarkeit. Der Hartblau galt bis 2007 als nicht existent!
"Germany's oldest red wine variety"
This original variety could without
furtjher ado be 8,000 years old! Easily Germany's oldest red wine variety it is
almost a genetic twin of Süßschwarz. It has existed since the Bronze Age on the
southwest shore of the Caspian Sea. It's name describes the robustness of the
plant and the wine's acid and tannins. In earlier field blends Hartblau
conferred better laying down potential and durability. Hartblau was considered
inexistant in 2007!
Koniaros
Nerantzi.
Koniaros. Serres, Macedonia, Greece. 2013. 13.5%
Nerantzi
makes a wine from what they call an ancient Greek grape variety called
Koniaros. We are endebted to Markus Stolz for the following information:
Fact File Koniaros Area
grown:
Serres, Macedonia, in the far north of Greece, close to the Bulgarian border.
Currently Domaine Nerantzi is the only producer of a varietal Koniaros. History: Koniaros is an
ancient variety that had been left behind due to low yields. Nerantzi
Mitropoulos came across vines in 1998. He had them DNA tested, registered
Koniaros with the authorities, preserved and cultivates it.
Mavrostyfo
Papargyriou The Unique
Mavrostyfo. Corinth, Greece. 2018. 14%
Mavrostyfo is
also a synonym for the ubiquitous and overrated Agiorgitiko. However, It gets
an entry of its own in Galet:
Mavrostypho.
Syn. : Mavroudi Stufo, Mavrostyfo
(Kotinis).
Cepage de cuve
grec (Argolyde. Cyclades) mentionne par Kotinis et Krimbas
www.botilia.gr has it as follows:
Mavrostyfo
started off as a personal bet for Yiannis Papargyriou. Things today
show that he won big time! We don't know if it was luck or destiny to find a
forgotten clone of Mavrostyfo in one of his vineyards. But we know for
sure that only Yiannis Papargyriou would dare to mess with a completely
unknown and unpredictable Greek grape variety. No one could predict the result…
but if you know him, you probably expected that Mavrostyfo will be the next big
thing in Greek wine.
For Papargyriou, Mavrostyfo may have been his destiny to
help him take his course to another level….
As its name suggests, The Unique Mavrostyfo 2019 is single varietal Greek wine,
an option that for the maître of blending, Yiannis Papargyriou, is rather
representative of the trust he shows in the possibilities of the grape variety.
Unfiltered and matured for 12 months in oak barrels, it demonstrates from its
youth, its fierce, unrestrained character with a concentration that will make
you cry.
The Unique Mavrostyfo 2019 Papargyriou Winery is a great wine that you can
enjoy from the day it falls into your hands. But if you have the patience to
wait for a few years, its complexity will amaze you!
Occhiorosso
Villa
Calcinaia Occhiorosso. Rosso dei Colli della Toscana Centrale I.G.T. Italy.
2018. 13.5%
“Roberto...Bandinelli
discovered the variety while talking one day to Nunziata Grassi, an 85 year old
who took him around her vineyards and showed him Occhiorosso… The minute
Bandinelli showed me what to look for in an Occhiorosso grapevine I was
immediately able to recognise it without fail in any other vineyard I visited
that day with him.”
Ian D’Agata, Native Wine Grapes of Italy.
Parpato
Halarà Rosso.
Marsala, terre Siciliani IGP. Sicilia. Italy. 2019. 12%
“Halarà is a project very
much inspired by the Mediterranean and those that tend its land.
It is a collaboration between Nino Barraco, Corrado
Dottori of La Distesa and a handful of friends who happen to be some of
Italy’s most talented winemakers. The idea is simple: to restore abandoned
vineyards in the hills outside Marsala and produce wines that speak of this
incredible place – the sun, the soil, the wind and most importantly, the
sea.
For now they are working with two hectares of thirty five
year old vines planted with Catarratto and Parpato, a mysterious grape thought
to be an ancient relative of Grenache.”
Tutto Wines website.
Parpato is not
listed in ‘Wine Grapes’ or ‘Native Wine Grapes of Italy nor even Galet.
Sanforte
Villa
Calcinaia, Sanforte. Rosso dei Colli della Toscana Centrale I.G.T. Italy. 2018.
13.5%
Sanforte is
listed separately from Sangiovese in Ian D’Agata’s authoritative ‘Native Wine
Grapes of Italy. He tells us that he name is a contraction of Sangiovese Forte
but everything about the variety differs from Sangiovese; it is more fertile,
produces more bunches, ripens earlier, piles up sugar in its berries more
notably and makes a more massive wine, yet one that retains elegance. Villa
Calcinaia is the only winery making a monovarietal from this grape.
Sirica
Feudi di San Gregorio. Irpinia, Campania IGT. Italy. 2018.
13.5%
The story of Sirica is truly amazing. It is one of the oldest
known varieties in Italy (it was known to Pliny the Elder in 75 BC), but seems
to have been reduced to three or four 250 – 280 year old vines on the estate of
Feudi di San Gregorio.
Joanna Simon writes;
The three vines were
re-propagated by Feudi di San Gregorio and they now have a three-hectare
vineyard with modern vertical trellising, yielding 5000 bottles a year, up from
690 bottles in 2007. The first commercial release was 2009, followed by 2011,
2013 and 2014.
Turca
Conte Emo
Capodilista. Selvazzano Dentro (Padova). Vino Rosso. Italy. 2015. 14%
Grown in the
Veneto and Trentino, Turca (nothing to do with Turkey) used to be much more
prevalent than it is now. Apparently a certain Signor Girardi should be
credited with the recent rebirth of the variety in the Veneto. It was he who
selected vines in the Vallagarina and brought them back to Veneto. Emo
Capodilista is heavily involved in Turca cultivation and Ian D’Agata states
that this is the only Turca monovarietal wine he knows.
D’Agata also has
this to say on the question as to whether Turca is the same as Douce Noir which
is a possibility:
‘I know of no
peer-reviewed study supporting the identity between Douce Noir and Turca:
iuntil one exists, I will consider Turca as a separate variety, just as it is
listed in the National Registry.
‘Unnamed’
Ktima Biblia
Chora Biblinos Oenos unnamed local variety. Pangeon, Kavala, Northern Greece.
2012. 14%
Unnamed local variety. You won't find that in any reference book! It just shows
there may be even more varieties out there than we think there are. How
exciting.
The story is that in 1998, when planting their first vineyard, a local farmer
came to Biblia Chora and told them about a large and old vine nearby which
supposedly had roots going down 20 metres. Cuttings were taken and in 2003/4,
70 bottles were made as an experiment. A year later 150 bottles were made. In
2006 the area planted with this mysterious local grape was 0.7 ha. In 2009, 1.3
ha. and now over 2 ha.
DNA analyses were made and it was established that the vine had no matches to
any other. The variety has good resistance to diseases and heat stress.
In 2008, a rose wine was made but in 2009, a red and since then this has been
the norm.
One wonders why Biblinos Oenos doesn't come up with a name for this promising
variety. Maybe Kavala, the name of the nearest town?
Vradiano
Vriniotis. Vradiano. Gialtra, Evia. Greece. 2016. 15%
Vradiano the back label
reads; 'Former forgotten variety from Northern Evia. Vradiano is revived thanks
to the cultivation and winemaking efforts of the people in the Vriniotis
Winery.' Another heartwarming story. Vradiano is not mentioned in The Wines of Greece
(Lazarakia), 'Wine Grapes' or even D'Agata (only jokimg). Galet has an entry of
course in which we learn that Vradyano or Vradiano aka Vradinia or Bordiano is
authorised in Thessaly, Central Greece and on the island of Euboea (Evia) which
is where this wine comes from. Galet adds 'Vin rouge ayant un bon bouquet.'
We hope the whacking 15% alcohol doesn't disguise the 'bon bouquet,'
Wines made from rare grape varieties by only a handful of producers
White
Charmont
Klushof
Koellreuter,
Charmont.
Basler-Landschaft
A.O.C. Aesch, Switzerland. 2018. 11.2%
A
Chasselas x Chardonnay cross (1965) from the Caudoz Viticultural
Centre in Pully, Switzerland, There were just 10 ha. In 2009. Four
producers are mentioned in ‘Wine Grapes’ apart fom this one from
Klushof Koellreuter.
Cinsault
Blanc
Rall.
Wine of Origin Wellington, South Africa. 2017. 10.5%
Rall’s
Cinsault Blanc
ticks all our boxes as it were. Cinsault Blanc is a two-time colour
mutation of (red) Cinsault. The first mutation was to Cinsault Gris
and this mutated in turn to Cinsault Blanc. All these took place in
South Africa where there are 0.2 ha. remaining. Cinsault Blanc was
once known as 'Albatros.'
Donzelinho
Branco.
Dona Graca.
Douro, Portugal. 2016. 13%
An old Portuguese
variety from the Douro, mainly in interplanted port vineyards and so
is rarely found as a monocepage wine. In 2010 there were only 42 ha.
Remaining ‘very much less than 10-15 years ago.’ (‘Wine
Grapes’).
Maturana
Blanca.
Vina Ijalba.
Rioja, Spain. 2019. 13.5%
In 2008 there were
only 3 ha. of Maturana Blanca in Spain (Rioja).’Vina Ijalba rescued
this variety in 1988 helped by viticulturalists Juan Carlos Sancha
Gonzales and Fernando Martinez… They planted the first vineyard in
1995 and are currently the sole producers of a varietal wine... (Wine
Grapes).’
Maturano
Giovanni Farinelli. Via Comino. Lazio, Italy. 2015. 12%
A favourite of D.H. Lawrence on a visit of his to Italy, apparantly,
production of Maturano in purezza must have paused because
D’Agata writing prior to publication in 2014 (Native Wine Grapes of
Italy) says ‘There are producers in Lazio planning to release a
monovarietal bottling soon.’
Note the deep golden colour.
Orangetraube
Zahel, Wien,
Austria. NV. 12.5%
Zahel’s Orangtaube
is described as follows on the Noble Green website;
‘Despite the name
this isn't an 'orange' wine in the current meaning of the term. It's
made from a little known Austrian grape variety called Orangetraube
and this is what gives rise to its moniker. Because it's not on the
DAC Vienna list of varieties it can't be given a vintage
however, we happen to know they're currently on the 2019. Zahel
reckon they're one of the very few in Austria (or anywhere else) to
produce a single varietal expression of this grape and it's one
that's certainly worthy of attention.’
Pozsonyi
Feher.
Szentpeteri Borpince. Kunsagi region. Hungary. 2018. 12%
"This is another Hungarian variety which is rarely made up into
a single-varietal wine.....The grape is mostly known for being the
parent of ...Irsai Oliver (a cross between Pozsonyi Feher and
Csabagyongye)...”
Note from 'Tasting Table Hungary' website.
Ribona
(aka Maceratino).
Il Pollenza
Angera. Il Pollenza. Colli Maceratesi DOC. Italy. 2017. 12.5%
Ribona is also known as Macerantino Bianco. ‘Wine Grapes’
mentions 4 producers other than this one (Angera) and D’Agata a
further 3. D’Agata says it may be related to Verdicchio but is
lighter. Ribona appears to be an ancient variety.
Rosseto
Cotarella. Ferentano. Lazio. Lazio Bianco IGP. Italy. 2016. 13%
Aka Rossetto, Roschetto, this grape was near extinction in the 1960s
but was brought back from the brink by Ricardo and Enzo Cotarella.
Santameriana.
(Orange Wine)
Sant’Or,
Achaia. Peloponnese. Greece. 2018. 13%
Mentioned under
‘Asprouda’ in ‘Wine Grapes’ only as a component of
Antonopoulos’s Adoli Ghis white field blend.
Sant’Or wines is located outside Patra, and operated by a local
grower, Panagiotis Dimitropoulos, who is cultivating his 4.5 ha of
vineyards biodynamically, at an altitude of 600m, with no irrigation.
Indigenous to the historical village of Santomeri is the rare white
grape Santameriana. Panagiotis is the only grower cultivating the
Santameriana grape.
Eklektikon website.
Servant.
Domaine Obriere,
Chevalier Servant. Beziers. Languedoc Rousillon. Vin de France. 2017.
12.5%
Servant has 143 ha.
in France and 95 ha. in South Africa (2008) mainly as table grape.
One producer of a ‘Servant dominated blend’ - Domaine Jordy’s
Cert-Vert, Vin de Pays de Herault is mentioned in ‘Wine Grapes.’
This wine from near Beziers in the Languedoc is believed to contain
some Chardonnay.
Sklava
Zacharias. Nemea. Peloponnese, Greece. 2014. 12.5%
Wines are usually low in alcohol but have relatively fresh acidity.
Monovarietals are unusual. The only other producer we can find is
Kontovraki.
Soreli.
A.A. Obiz. Friuli
Venezia Giulia, Italy. Sample bottle. 2019.
A new resistant
variety obtained by Vivai Cooperativo Rauscedo from (Tocai) Fiulano
with a resistant partner or partners. AA. Obiz is one of two
producers known to have made a monovarietal version but seem to have
used Soreli only in a blend since then. This bottle is a sample of
their 100% Soreli kindly provided by AA. Obiz (Friuli). Soreli means
‘sun’ in Friulian. There has been a small experimental planting
in the UK (250 vines).
Szeremi
Zold (Green of Szerem).
Oszkar Maurer,
Királyhalom, Subotica, Serbia. 2015. 11%
A wine by the great
Oszkar Maurer of which he writes: Place of production: Fodor
vineyard, Királyhalom (wine region of Subotica, Serbia – formerly
Hungary). The vineyards are separated from the “Szelevényi”
nature reserve by only a 3 meter wide road...The indigenous grapevine
of Szerémi Zöld is one of the best varieties in our region.
Maurer appears to be
one of only 3 or 4 producers of Szeremi Zold.
Vardea
Lefkaditiki
Gi winery Lefkas. PGI Lefkada. Ionian Islanda, Greece. 2016. 12.5%
Not mentioned in
‘Wine Grapes,’ or ‘The Wines of Greece’ by Konstantinos
Lazarakis. Only a short entry in Galet.
Kudos
Wines’ website:
‘Vardea
is a rare white grape variety that is mostly cultivated in the Ionian
islands. It produces fresh, dry and refreshing white wines with
raisin and honey hints on the nose.’
Nico
Manessis ‘Greek Wine World’ writes:
Vardea
is one of the most intriguing lesser seen high quality grapes
The wine it produces is distinctly different from that other Ionian
island great white grape Robola from Cephalonia The success of the
flourishing Lefkaditiki Gi winery has spurred more acreage of the
distinct Vardea now been planted in the sandy clay soils of the
villages of Vassiliki Kontarena and Ayios Petros These
initiatives are more than just news They are important steps in
strengthening regional diversity and individuality in a market
awash with metoo blends...By far the most exciting discovery in ages
A bright light for the future.
Verdejo
Serrana
Jesus Recuero.
Vinedos Historicos de Sierra de Gata, Villamiel, Carceres, Spain.
2019. 12.5%
This
is a real re-discovery. Almost extinct it was only found early this
century and was not described until 2006. It was officially
registered in 2009. Only the Cooperativa de San Esteban in Sierra de
Franca (Salamanca) and very few others other than Jesus Recuero make
a varietal wine from Verdejo Serrana.
Verdoncho
Jesus Recuero,
Vinedos de Guzquia, Villanueva de Alcardete, Spain. 2015. 11.8%
There is quite a lot
of Verdoncho about but according to ‘Wine Grapes’ ‘Most of it’s
produce disappears into blends. It does not appear to be authorized
for DO wines...little is known about its history or origin although
it is an old variety.’
Vugava.
Stina
Vines, Vis, Dalmatia, Croatia. 2018. 13%
Mainly
from Vis (Croatia) and surrounding islands. 4 producers mentioned in
‘Wine Grapes’
Red
Bondola.
Cantina Giubasco. Terra Negra. Ticino DOC. Vino tipico del
Sopraceneri. Switzerland. 2018. 13%
According to ‘Wine
Grapes’ ‘Old rare Ticino variety that has been overwhelmed by
Merlot.’ Formerly the most important red grape there only 13 ha. Of
Bondola remained in 2009. Apart from this example from Cantina
Giubasco, only two others are mentioned in ‘Wine Grapes.’
Carrasquin
Bodegas
Obanca. Castro de Limes, Asturias, Spain. 2011. 14.5%
Possibly
related to Alfrocheiro and Prieto Picudo, Carrasquin
is ‘too minor to feature in official statistics...the variety is
authorised in the Vino de la Tierra de Cangas the regional wine from
south-western Asturias.’ (‘Wine Grapes’). It is used mainly for
Rose wines.
Csókaszőlő
Csókaszőlő.
Bussay. Zalai (region). Hungary. 2018. 12%
"Csókaszőlő
is a rare, ancient Hungarian variety which is experiencing a small
revival. In addition to Bussay, there are just a handful of other
producers who grow Csókaszőlő. Like several other Hungarian grape
varieties which have been revived in the past decades, Csókaszőlő
owes its comeback to winemaker Jozef Szentesi in the Eytek-Buda
region....in 2004 Szentesi was the first winery to commercially
produce Csókaszőlőafter almost 150 years. Bussay was next. Csóka
means jackdaw...and szőlő means wine.
'Tasting Table
Hungary' website.
Darnekusa
Plancic, Hvar, Croatia. 2015. 13.3%
Aka Drnekusa,
Darnekusa is grown almost exclusively on the island of Hvar. This
version is by Plancic. There is another by the British winemaker Jo
Ahearne MW.
Ekigaina
Lionel Osmin,
Morlaas, Pyrenees Atlantiques. Vin de France. 2016. 12.5%
A Tannat x Cabernet
Sauvignon cross at INRA (Bordeaux) in 1955. ‘Wine Grapes’ says
it doesn’t seem to have caught on yet. That is born out by the fact
there were fewer than 3 ha. in France in 2008. We also learn that
Zuccardi have experimented with minuscule plantings in Argentina.
Ekigaina is Basque for Sun Month.
Moravia
Agria
Bodegas y Vinedos
Ponce. Buena Pinta. Manchela, Denominacion de Origen Protegida.
Spain. 2017. 12%
Obscure
and elusive. Moravia Agria is totally different from and not to be
confused with Moravia Dulce (Brudijera). This version by Ponce
contains 10% Garnacha.
Mornen
Noir
Domaine des
Amphores. Mornen Noir. Vin de France. Northern Rhone. France. 2020
12%
From the Chambers
St. Wines (NY) newsletter:
‘And now for
something completely different... While tasting at Domaine des
Amphores with Philippe and Véronique Grenier a few years ago, we
noticed a small barrel with "Mornen Noir" scrawled on the
front in chalk. A grape apparently native to the area between the
Rhone and Loire rivers south of Lyon, it had been grown by Philippe's
grandfather Louis - now the Greniers and a few other growers in
Chavanay are once again making wine from this ancient variety...’
David Lillie.
Nieddera
Contini. Isole
degli Nuraghe Rosso IGT. Sardegna, Italy. 2014. 14.5%
Contini’s
‘Barrile’ contains 85% Nieddera – a rare Sardinian variety and
15% of the even rarer Caddiu. D’Agata writes ‘Contini the best
producer of Nieddera wine, who deserves great credit and everyone’s
admiration for essentially saving the variety from extinction...
Contini is one of the few producers of monovarietal (or very close to
it) Nieddera wines and by far the largest and best.’
Picapoll
Negre
Oller del Mas.
Pla de Bages. Catalunya, Spain. 2016. 12%
As Piquepoul Noir
this grape is quite well known in Southern France with 75 ha. Used
mainly for Rose wines and in blends. It is even a permitted variety
in Chateauneuf du Pape.
In Spain there were
just 3 ha. In 2008. Again, it is generally used in blends so this
bottle may be unique.
Piculit Neri
Emilio Bulfon.
Piculit Neri. Pinzano al Tagliamento, Trevenezie.
Italy. 2018. 12.5%
Another revival from
Emilio Bulfon. Few could have done more to re-establish so many
endangered varieties – all interesting. They come from his area in
Venezia-Friuli-Giulia. The list includes
Cividin
Cjanorie
Cordenossa
Forgiarin
Fumo Rosso
Moscato Rosa
Piculit Neri
Pocol
Sciaglin
Ucelut
D’Agata writes: Emilio Bulfon is the person we have to thank that
today we can speak of [Cjanorie]. He started out in 1972 and “It
didn’t take me long to realize that all the grapevines around my
house were completely different than any I had ever seen previously.
Deciding I wanted to know more about them was easy – setting out to
select, propagate and save them was a lot more difficult.”
Ribeyrenc
Domaine Thierry Navarre, Roquebrun,
Languedoc, Vin de France. 2017. 12%
Aka Rivairenc. Thierry Navarre has nurtured
this variety (‘Cepage oublie du Languedoc) back to life and is one
of only 2 or 3 producers of monovarietal wines as far as is known.
Seibel
Rouge
GAEC du Pic (ex
Mondon). Boisset-Saint-Priest.
Loire,
France. 2017. 12%
There
are no fewer than 56 different Seibels, all produced by crossing
Vinifera with native American varieties. They are not much used these
days. There are some plantings in Michigan but they are not
authorised in France which makes this bottle from
Boisset-Saint-Priest near St. Etienne particularly intriguing.
We don’t know which of the 56 Seibels this one is but we’re
pretty sure there can’t be many or any other ones just like it.
Slarina
Cantina Iuli,
Montaldo, Piemonte. Italy. NV. 11.5%
Douglas Wregg of
'Les Caves de Pyrene' writes;
'Fabrizio Iuli...planted
more and more vineyards (9 ha in total) and cultivates Nebbiolo and
Pinot Noir...Barbera. Recently, he has begun to rediscover other
autochthonous varieties and to that end is producing some fascinating
examples of the lesser known Grignolino (Natalin), Slarina (La Rina)
and Baratuciat (Barat).
It seems likely that
Italian viticultural authorities removed Slarina (amongst others)
from the registry of recognised varieties during the country’s
post-war viticultural renaissance because of its inconsistant
productivity...'
You won't find Slarina either in
D'Agata or in 'Wine Grapes.'
