Milan/Venice, January 2009

A premiere at La Scala with two of our artists was a great pleasure, but we managed to discover a gold mine in the short time between arriving and the opera. Thanks to that wonderful thing called the Internet, we found ourselves chez Adriano at the Enoteca 'per Bacco', Via Pecchio 4, 2031 Milano (02 7428 1110). www.perbaccomilano.it

Now Adriano is an opera lover as well as a wine merchant of genius. He comes from Venezia and has a wonderful range of Vino Sfuso including

Rossi
	Cabernet Franc	12,00 %Vol	Rosso rubino carico, profumo intenso, erbaceo, vinoso. In bocca robusto, vellutato, giustamente tannico.
	Merlot Base	10,50 %Vol	Rosso rubino con riflessi violacei. Profumi caratteristici di mora ed erba tagliata. In bocca vinoso morbido ed avvolgente, leggermente aromatico.
	Incrocio Manzoni 6015	12,00%Vol	Rosso rubino trasparente. Tipici profumi erbacei uniti a sentori di frutta rossa matura. Elegante di stoffa sottile, persistente, tannico
	Bordolese	12,50%Vol	Rosso rubino intenso, profumo erbaceo ricco di citazioni fruttate. In bocca asciutto, complesso fresco e dai tannini equilibrati
	Pinot Nero	11,50%Vol	Rosso rubino non molto intenso. Elegante, molto profumato, delicato e speziato. In bocca beverino, fresco, floreale
	Cabernet Sauvignon	11,50%Vol	Rosso rubino trasparente, Profumi erbacei e sentori di frutta rossa matura. .Robusto, di equilibrata acidità.
	Merolt riserva	12,00 %Vol	Rosso rubino brillante. Sentori di marasca, e di more mature. Vellutato delicatamente acidulo, giustamente tannico.
	Marzemino	11,50%Vol	Rosso rubino acceso, brillante e trasparente. Profumi persistenti. In bocca secco, armonico con finale gradevolmente amarognolo.
	Refosco	11,5 % Vol.	Rosso con tendenza al violaceo. Vinoso fruttato, speziato. In bocca asciutto, fruttato e floreale, fresco e vellutato.
Bianchi
	Sauvignon	12,00%Vol	Giallo paglierino con riflessi verdognoli. Aromatico e delicato al naso. Ricordi di melone, peperone, banana. In bocca asciutto, elegante, carezzevole.
	Chardonnay	11,50%Vol	Giallo paglierino brillante. Sentori di mela matura, melone. In bocca complesso, mielato elegante e armonico.
	Pinot Grigio	12,00%Vol	Colore da giallo paglierino intenso ad ambrato. Delicato e fine, fruttato con ricordi di pera. In bocca sapido delicatamente acidulo con finale appena amarognolo
	Prosecco Spento	10,50%Vol	Giallo paglierino. Vinoso e fruttato leggermente aromatico. In bocca rotondo, sentori di mandorla, gradevole e beverino.
	Tocai	11,50%Vol	Giallo paglierino con riflessi verdognoli. Fresco asciutto e sapido, sottile ed elegante. In bocca asciutto, armonico e sapido.
	Incrocio Manzoni 6013	12,50%Vol	Giallo paglierino scarico. Profumi mediamente complessi floreali e fruttati. In bocca fresco elegante e beverino
	Prosecco frizzante	12,00%Vol	Vino da imbottigliare in primavera. Giallo paglierino con perlage abbastanza sottile e persistente. Profumi di crosta di pane, fiori di campo. In bocca elegante con una gradevole vena amabile sul finale.
	Verduzzo	10,50%Vol	Giallo paglierino con riflessi dorati. Vinoso, lievemente fruttato. In bocca armonico, fresco, persistente con gradevole nota finale acidula
Vini dolci
	Verduzzo Ramandolo	11,50%Vol	Giallo dorato chiaro. Sentori di miele con delicata presenza di mandorla tostata. Sapore dolce, delicato, accattivante

We include the whole range because these wines represent not only the bargain of the century but also tremendous diversity and interest. We bouight the Refosco and Incrocio Manzoni. When we explained to Adriano that we were going to have to transport these bottles in hold luggage he sold us two beautiful bottles (which we subsequesntly used for olive oil) with metal caps which did the job of keeping in the wine without any leaks and maintaining its freshness.

Both vini sfusi were delicious. They were surely the new wine of the 2008 vintage which had just been distributed to these outlets. We asked Adriano how he kept the wine fresh in his demijohns and the answer was surprising; he doesn't use gas or vacuum. He know he can sell the contents of his demijohns each day.

Adriano also sold us three wines otherwise unknown to us, two of which subsequently turned out to be old friends. They were

Franconia delle Venezie' = Blaufraenkisch

Terrano = Mondeuse

A third wine from the Vallee d'Aoste (where French still rules) was Mayolet which turns out to be the parent, together with Petit Rouge of Cornalin.

In Milano we trawled through Peck's wine department but were warded off by the prices. In Venezia we visited the Wine Nazi (Qv) but he has moved to smaller premeses and so the choice is diminished. Typically neither he nor the other sellers of Vino Sfuso had anything like the selection of Per Bacco in Milan. We did however find a litre of Malbech at 'Al Canton del Vin' (Castello 3156) for 1.95 Euros which was also very 'novello' and delightful.

Arriving at the Aeroporto Marco Polo early with the express intention of having lunch with our friends at the Wine Bar there (surely the best in any airport in the world, not that there is much competition) we got into an arguement with the delightful people serving there over what was called Traminer on the wine list and Gewurztraminer which is what was poured for us. When we said what we wanted was Traminer we were told it was the same thing. Slotovino maintained Traminer is something completely different and a good-natured arguement ensued. We are happy to say that in a sense we were both right. There is an excellent entry in Wikipedia on the subject.

Good buys at the Duty Free shop included a Pinot Bianco and a Fiulano from Proietti, and a Bardolino from Fratta Pasini.

Vin naturel

We hadn't come across this before. Vin naturel is a movement for not only Biodynamic vineyard practices but vinification with only local wild yeasts, non-filtration and many other refinements ("pas de tracteur sur le domaine"!). There is a centre for such wines in Paris described as a wine-bar. The name is Racine. The owner is Pierre Jancou and he runs a wine shop and cafe combining organic produce from the best producers. The address is

8 Passage des Panoramas, Paris 75002 (00 33 14 031 0641)

How did we find Racine's? We didn't. We came to it from an oblique angle (a good way to get there). On a recent visit to Paris, we printed out the 'Paris Artisan-Wines Cavistes' page from www.wineterroirs.com in order to find some alternative cavistes to our beloved Lavinia. Looking for wines from lesser known grape varieties as ever, we gravitated towards Le verre vole, 67 Rue Lancry, 10e. where we could have lunch and buy wine at the same time and La Cremerie, 9 Rue des Quatre Vents, 6e. where this so-called 'natural wine' was available.

After a delicious Betterave hors d'oeuvre and Saucisse et pomme puree dish of the day, not to mention a dodgy glass of Cabernet Franc d'Anjou and a much better Gamay de l'Ardeche we bought a bottle of Pierre Overnoy 2007 Arbois Pulillon Poulsard. Now what set bells ringing was the mec who was dishing the food and selling the wine told us to keep the wine 'au frais' which we did. It is original, delicious and excellent.

La Cremerie was even more interesting. Having declared our interest for 'cepages inconnues' we were introduced to a Chasselas from Eric Pfifferling in the Cotes du Rhone - L'Anglore Cuvee des Caprices 12.5%, we went on to buy a Clos du Rouge Gorge Pays des Cotes Catalanes (Macabeo, white) by Cyril Fhal, another mainstay of vin naturel ad a Domaine Navarre Vin d'Oeillades 11.5% From Roquebrun. Oeillade turns out to be a hybrid between Pinot Noir and Hermitage (Cinsault). That sounds very much like Pinotage, surely? We can't wait to try it.

At Lavinia (how could we forsake it?), we found a Cot (Malbec) from the Loire, a Menu Pineau (white) called Le Brin de Chevre. The producer seems to be called Sari and the wine also bears the inscription 'Le Clos de Tue-Boeuf, 41120 Les Montels which we think is in the Languedoc.

There were two other bottles from Lavinia, our first Slovenian wine, a Tocaj Gredic from Brda 'since 1820' (sic) 12% and not for the exorbitant prices we have previously seen on wines from Slovenia and an Arbois Traminer from Stephan Tissot in the Jura.

Now hereby hangs a tale. In our next blog you will read about our little contretemps at the wonderful wine bar at Marco Polo Airport in Venice. It turns out Traminer is not our old friend Gewurztraminer but Savignin which in the Jura is seriously salty and dry as hell. We will see why Stephane Tissot, one of the Jura's leading producers decided to label this wine Traminer instead of Savignin which is in commen usage in the Jura (it is responsible for 'Vin Jaune' after all). This bottle was not cheap (17 Euros) so let's hope it is something enjoyable rather than just wierd.

A Colares Evening

This did not turn out as hoped for but we had a very jolly evening and so perhaps this is something to be said in favour of the Colares wines which were drunk exclusively that night (10.1.09).

There was a very distinguished line up for what turned out to be some very disappointing bottles: in alphabetical order

Carla Capalbo
Paul Levy
Penelope Levy
Jeffrey Tobias
Rebecca Willer
Robert Willer

The main mistake was to have relied too much on Colares' reputation as ageworthy. Whether due to poor storage or any actual inability to age, the old wines were all more or less kaput and although of interest to some in a geriatric way they did nothing to establish enthusiasm for the Ramisco grape or Colares itself.



There was mild enthusiasm for the 2004 Fundacao Oriente and 2005 D'Areia. A venerable Tinta Chao ('Red Clay') NV was downright corked. The 1967 and even the 1995s from Chitas and D'Areia were past their best to say the least.



Oh well, as stated a very enjoyable evening thanks in no small degree to Jill Slotover's cooking.

Hungary - an update

We have worked our way through about half the plunder from Hungary and the results have been mostly fair to disappointing so far. As a reminder here is the list. Comments on the bottles opened to date follow in blue.

Whites
Harslevelu (Tornai) 12.5%. Clearly Harslevelu is a sweet variety only of interest as a component of Tokaj. This was a well made wine but need not detain us in purezza.
Harslevelu (Tornai) 13%
Furmint (Tornai) 12%
Very good indeed! Drier as well as less alcoholic than other Furmints we have encountered. Perhaps not surprisingly we have found this wine in London imported by Zelas Wines and Sprits and available albeit at a rather hefty price from 'Wine of Course', 216 Archway Road, N6 5AX (2028 347 9006).
Leanyka (Toth Ferenc) 13% Turns out to be the same as Feteasca (Romania). Pleasant but off-dry. No 'ethnic' notes (in other words 'individuality'). Not unlike a Vinho Verde.
Cserszegi Fuszeres (Gelbmann Pince) 10.6% Quite pleasant but again off-dry. Reminiscent of Riesling.
Keknyelu and Olaszrizling (Badacsonyi Tomaj Cuvee) 12.5%

This is a find. We were beginning to think Hungarian white was all off-dry to medium sweet. This was refreshing and interesting. Not a sensational discovery but let's say worthwhile importing provided the price was right (£6?). Better than anything Chapel Hill has to offer!
Juhfark by Pantlika at 12.5%
Slightly petillant, less aromatic and perhaps less characterful than the example tasted in Buda but pleasantly drinkable. Sadly not an essential candidate for export.

Reds
Kadarka (Duzsi Tamas) 12.5% More enjoyable but less 'ethnic than the Kadarka tasted at the Kiraly Borhaz cellars in Buda. Akin to a light Beaujolais. By the same token a bit 'international' and so less interesting.
Cabernet Franc (Tamas & Zsolt Gere, Villanyi) 13% This was "good enough but not enough good" as my dear artist, the great Russian bass Evgeny Nesterenko used to say.
Egri Bikavers by Tibor Gal for Gundel at 13% and the other by Thummerer (13.5%) The first should be passed over in silence and the second soon forgotten.
Bock Kekfrankos from Villanyi (13%). Again pleasant while it lasted but to be honest - unmemorable.

There are surely better Hungarian wines to be had but it is beginning to become clear why they are not very much in evidence internationally, with the exception of Tokaj of course. We will have to find another pretext to return there and perhaps come back with a mixed case from the (more expensive) wine merchant, Bortarsasag.

A great site for Italian varieties

Estimates say there are 22,200 grape varieties in the world so Italy has 10% at 2,200. here's a great site for those varieties prepared by Cinzia Forino:

www.vinoinrete.it/sommelier/_vitigni.html

Check it out: it's amazing how many unknown varieties there are in the Veneto and even Toscana

The last to know; Slotovino discovers Vilana

Are we the last to have discovered Vilana, the white grape from Crete? Oddbins have been carrying Xerolithia produced from 100% Vilana by Creta Olympias in the Peza area for some time without Slotovino being aware of this tremendous find. The 2006 costs £6.99 (£5.59 case price) and is one of the best value white wines you could expect to buy at the price. Not since we 'discovered' Pecorino, the white variety from Abruzzo has there been such enthusiasm for a 'new' variety.

For the last 7 years there has been enough recognition in the press so why is this beauty still not widely known?

* WEINGUIDE 2006 - FRANKFURT / HESSEN. At the annual journal edition (Rhein-Main geht aus 2006) in the extra supplement "Weinguide 2006" the top Masters of Wine, journalists, restaurateurs & wine experts present & rank the best white wines from indigenous & cosmopolitan grape varieties.
Among them "Xerolithia" appears as the favourite Greek white wine.
* VINO MAGAZINE - BELGIUM (October 2005 Issue) "Vin de Crete" (White - Vilana) participated in an international wine tasting and scored at the top category "Tres Bon".
* JANCIS ROBINSON: In her web site (www.jancisrobinson.com) she selects XEROLITHIA for her column "Wines of the week", and writes: "Here is a real bargain, a white wine with lots of ripe fruit and character..."
* INSIDE OUT (The City Magazine of Athens), December - January 2003: "Best of Class 2002", Nico Manessis writes: "XEROLITHIA, Creta Olympias. Finally, Cretan wine is playing catch up in the qualitative race among modern Greek wines. Vibrant with fruit, it is made from Vilana grapes and has raised many an eyebrow with wine commentators. This re-launched label represents this year's best value for money white wine."
* INSIDE OUT (The City Magazine of Athens), June 2002: "Island Wines", Nico Manessis writes: "Crete. Most stylish 2001 whites emerge from the hugely capitalized Creta-Olympias winery, above Iraklio, including a very modern variety from the Vilana grape, sporting the Nea Ghi label. My preference leans towards the more complete XEROLITHIA with its fresh kumkuat flavor.
* DAILY MIRROR, 25TH of May 2002: "Beer & Wine, Tim Curran's choice": "It’s hard for Greek wines to shake off the image of Retsina, but they have improved greatly over the last decade and Oddbins has the best selection on the High Street. Try XEROLITHIA dry white wine from Crete made from the native Vilana grape. It has crisp, fresh acidity, a slight sparkle, clean-lasting just ripe peach fruitiness-and no pine resin. I'll serve it at this weekend's barbecue, weather permitting."
* OBSERVER, 19TH of May 2002: "Wines of the week, Five wines to enjoy without the oak", by Tim Atkin. "XEROLITHIA, White, Peza. One of an outstanding array of new Greek wines at Oddbins, this richly textured, honeysuckle and peach - scented Cretian white is made from the local Vilana grape. Crisp acidity makes this a great accompaniment to food."
* DAILY EXPRESS: "Great Greek Wines": "Here are a few of my favourites: XEROLITHIA white, has refreshing tastes of zesty limes."
* SUNDAY TIMES, April 2001: "What Wine? - d is for... dolmades": "Stuffed vine leaves with a flavour that needs to be offset by an equally sharp Greek or Cyprus white. XEROLITHIA White, Crete, Greece."
* YORKSHIRE POST, Tony Fox, April 2001: "Don't Be A Wine Wimp, Give Greek Wines A Try": "Try the XEROLITHIA, made from Vilana grapes, for a new taste experience. This is a delicious, dry white, smelling of freshly squeesed lemons, which would accompany all types of seafood."
* DECANTER magazine, September 1999: "Greek Dry Whites", Recommended ***, CRETA NOBILE PEZA 1998, Creta Olympias: "Intense, fruity, perfumed nose. Smokey palate, with a slight orangey tang. Beautifully balanced."

American diversity after all

There's diversity in America after all. You can offset the miles of Cabernet Sauvignons and Chardonnays in US supermarkets by clicking onto www.AmericanWinery.com who will give you access to "great small producers that you just don't find on retail shelves." The wines come from practically every region and were being offered at 1 cent delivery charge in the USA. Slotovino cannot vouch for the quality of these wines but a few of them are Parker rated and the sheer boldness of some of the choices is worth patronising.

How about a Limberger (Lemberger) aka Blaufraenkisch from Washington or California, a Chambourcin from Pennsylvania or Missouri, a Corvina Amarone from Texas, Carneros Pinot Meunier, North Californian Fiano, Malbec or Counoise ("this wine goes with everything on every occasion") from Washington, a Californian Rose from Alicante Bouschet (a teinturier!)?

And how would we ever have discovered the wonderful Peter Fanucchi of Fanucchi Vineyards who writes of his Trousseau Gris (which he styles "99 Points!") that it "often retains some of it’s natural effervescence-CO2-which also keeps the wine a little fresher & can show more bubbles then most still wines"? He also has a most whimsical Philosophy Statement:

It is as much my deepest hope & prayer that all who taste Fanucchi Vineyards Wines, thoroughly enjoy a wine that treats the senses with something very special adding to your good meal and/or time with your friends, as it is my hope & prayer (& I hope yours, if not a prayer a resolution) that Fanucchi Vineyards' and all wines be enjoyed with the highest regards towards health & safety of EVERYONE, always.

You really can't find that on retail shelves!

Red Blend (341)
Cabernet Sauvignon (296)
Syrah (226)
Chardonnay (206)
Pinot Noir (183)
Zinfandel (173)
Merlot (153)
Fruit Wine (104)
White Blend (91)
Sauvignon Blanc (Fumé Blanc) (68)
Riesling (White Riesling) (63)
Pinot Gris (Pinot Grigio) (51)
Sangiovese (49)
Cabernet Franc (40)
Petite Sirah (39)
Viognier (36)
Red Table Wine (35)
Barbera (28)
Gewürztraminer (27)
White Table Wine (26)
Tempranillo (Valdepeñas) (19)
Grenache (16)
Malbec (14)
Shiraz (Syrah) (12)
Muscat Blanc (Muscat Canelli) (10)
Mead (8)
Nebbiolo (8)
Chenin Blanc (7)
Concord (7)
Dolcetto (7)
Vidal Blanc (7)
Semillon (6)
Alicante Bouschet (6)
Maréchal Foch (6)
Roussanne (6)
Ice Wine (5)
Limberger (Lemberger) (5)
Albariño (Alvarinho) (4)
Catawba (4)
Mourvèdre (Mataro) (4)
Norton (Cynthiana) (4)
Orange Muscat (4)
Petit Verdot (4)
Primitivo (4)
Red & White Blend (3)
Carignane (3)
Chambourcin (3)
Grenache Noir (3)
Muscat (3)
Sauvignon Blanc Musque (3)
Steuben (3)
Agave (2)
Frontenac (2)
Malvasia Bianca (2)
Niagara (2)
Pinot Blanc (2)
Pinotage (2)
Ruby Cabernet (2)
Seyval (Seyval blanc) (2)
Tinto Cão (2)
Touriga (2)
Touriga Nacional (2)
Trousseau Gris (2)
Verdelho (2)
Carmenere (1)
Aglianico (1)
Arneis (1)
Blanc Du Bois (1)
Cayuga White (1)
Charbono (1)
Chardonel (1)
Colombard (French Colombard) (1)
Conquistador (1)
Corvina (1)
Counoise (1)
Cynthiana (Norton) (1)
De Chaunac (1)
Dornfelder (1)
Edelweiss (1)
Fiano (1)
Grenache Gris (1)
Kerner (1)
Léon Millot (1)
Marsanne (1)
Melon de Bourgogne (Melon) (1)
Muscat Hamburg (Black Muscat) (1)
Müller-Thurgau (1)
Noble (1)
Pinot Meunier (1)
Siegfried (1)
Souzão (1)
Tannat (1)
Traminette (1)
Vignoles (1)